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Seadoo (Spark & ?) Speed Tie System - 550 / Paracord overhaul. 3D Printer File Image 1
Seadoo (Spark & ?) Speed Tie System - 550 / Paracord overhaul. 3D Printer File Image 2
Seadoo (Spark & ?) Speed Tie System - 550 / Paracord overhaul. 3D Printer File Image 3
Seadoo (Spark & ?) Speed Tie System - 550 / Paracord overhaul. 3D Printer File Image 4
Seadoo (Spark & ?) Speed Tie System - 550 / Paracord overhaul. 3D Printer File Image 5
Seadoo (Spark & ?) Speed Tie System - 550 / Paracord overhaul. 3D Printer File Image 6
Seadoo (Spark & ?) Speed Tie System - 550 / Paracord overhaul. 3D Printer File Image 7
Seadoo (Spark & ?) Speed Tie System - 550 / Paracord overhaul. 3D Printer File Thumbnail 1
Seadoo (Spark & ?) Speed Tie System - 550 / Paracord overhaul. 3D Printer File Thumbnail 2
Seadoo (Spark & ?) Speed Tie System - 550 / Paracord overhaul. 3D Printer File Thumbnail 3
Seadoo (Spark & ?) Speed Tie System - 550 / Paracord overhaul. 3D Printer File Thumbnail 4
Seadoo (Spark & ?) Speed Tie System - 550 / Paracord overhaul. 3D Printer File Thumbnail 5
Seadoo (Spark & ?) Speed Tie System - 550 / Paracord overhaul. 3D Printer File Thumbnail 6
Seadoo (Spark & ?) Speed Tie System - 550 / Paracord overhaul. 3D Printer File Thumbnail 7

Seadoo (Spark & ?) Speed Tie System - 550 / Paracord overhaul.

DOP avatarDOP

November 16, 2023

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Description

This particular project was done on a Seadoo spark, but I believe Seadoo uses these same mechanisms on other skis.

Speed ties… great until they don't retract properly, especially if you have done any speaker modifications where a long string with a chunk of plastic on the end can find it's way between the speaker and the grille.

The cause: Seadoo uses an acorn like piece of plastic inside the speed tie to anchor the cord to the tie before it gets to the end of the cord, this is useless and creates a situation when this “acorn” bunches up the cord and jams the mechanism (I've added a photo of this); we are NOT gonna reuse this Acorn.

Solution: modify the speed tie to use 550 or paracord and fix the problem.

Bonus: Color match your wrap with new end pieces! (photo included)

 

Directions:

You will have to completely disassemble the speed tie… this includes removing the screw on top of the drum and separate the halves. Take note of how the current cord is installed you will need to fix the 550/paracord in the same manner, to aid with the hold of this make sure you melt the end of the cord and make it a bit bulky so it can't slip past the U-turn it makes, you should be able to pull on the cord once the drum is reassembled and it not come out.

Next you will need to seat the drum into the large housing and wind it as much as possible and then let it reel the line in as it un-winds.  Once here complete the mod of the clamping mechanism.

To find the piece you need to modify you will have to disassemble the front part (part with the lever that the end sits in), when you separate the two halves, you may have to pull the piece you need out from one of the halves (be sure not to lose the spring or sprung bearing, those will be reused). Now you will need to align your mod on the part and mark where you need to cut the item, cut it to fit then press it in, reassemble and you're done. 

This modification ensures that the cord clamp still works as intended. 

Feed the cord through the newly modified clamp mechanism.

Lastly make sure you have printed the new end pieces and feed the free end of the cord through it,  pull some of the cord so the system has some tension with the end piece mating/seating within the clamp housing, adjust tension as you wish, tie a knot and melt the end. Install cap cover, I recommend using some sort of flexible glue for the cap as it is possible for the cap latches to break.

Reinstall and enjoy, along the way throw away the stupid acorn and old cord while imagining how an engineer could miss this problem.

Note, the end piece will stick out a bit more than the old one, this was a design choice by me. As always I have included the Fusion360 files so you may edit as you wish, and because I was too lazy to upload the End Caps without my faux logo on them.

 

***HIGHLY RECOMMEND PETG/BPET/PETT FILAMENT*** 

               For Temp resistance, UV resistance, and chemical resistance as well as amazeballs level layer adhesion. (pro-tip: print higher temp for best layer adhesion and clean up stringing with a heat gun)

License:

Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike

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