Seadoo Spark Speaker Backers (6.5" Speakers)

I created these backers as I had been damaging my kicker speakers about once per season and I have a theory that air pressures could've been adding to the cause of this and I also wanted a way to quickly change damaged speakers without having to remove the top of the ski.

Note: you will have to cut good amounts of the foam base out of the lower hull to do this mod as well as cutting holes into the upper hull. 

The parts are specific to sides as it accounts for an angle change across the hull, you can see this in the pictures.

I've only included files for LH side, to print the RH side you need to mirror the parts in your slicer across the X axis.

Both adapters have grooves for silicone or RTV for a better seal, they also have tiny holes to allow for smidgen of air flow for temperature based air pressure normalization, but won't allow the speaker and engine intake to fight one another on air pressure. The Wire passthrough adapter is made to be used with RTV or silicone as well, it also is sized to use M4 Heat Set Inserts; while the Deutsch adapter is meant for an M4 screw and lock-nut setup.

Additionally I recommend putting silicone on the speaker backer rim and around the outside when you mount it; If you do this, make sure to go ahead and screw in the M4 screws as well so the holes/threads don't get gunked up with silicone, you can see this is the state one of the pictures above was taken in.

The speaker backer uses both M5 and M4 heat-set inserts, they are set for depth with a tight fit for the screw beyond the insert (i.e. ghetto lock-nut), I still used a plastic safe thread locker to be safe (Vibra-TITE VC3). 

The M5 Screws are Counter Sunk M5x20 Screws for securing the backer to the hull, these holes will need to be counter sunk as you can see in the picture, don't mind the one that got chewed up I had a really crappy counter sink bit >.<, but note that you do need to make sure they sit flush or a little under level for a good speaker seal. 

The M4 Screws are for mounting the speaker to the hull/backer Recommend no less than 30mm long screws here, holes are completely pass through so too long is not a problem unless you get like 80mm long screws.

The center hole on the template is for indexing a hole saw, check your particular speaker and verify what the pass though hole for the speaker needs to be.

Deutsch Flange Connector I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0766DQ7WQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Will Post photos of Wire passthrough and the foam base post-cut as soon as I'm done doing it on a 2nd ski I'm currently working on.

Experience tip: I have found no tape with decent high temp rating that likes to stick to the polypropylene this hull is made of,  and as you can see in the photo with the wiring in it I used plastic welding and Polypropylene repair sticks wrapped in heat shrink to create cable channels, I am also a fan of silicone wiring for abrasion and heat resistance.

***HIGHLY RECOMMEND PETG/BPET/PETT FILAMENT*** 

               For Temp resistance, UV resistance, and chemical resistance as well as amazeballs level layer adhesion. (pro-tip: print higher temp for best layer adhesion and clean up stringing with a heat gun)