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Printable Rotor Blades for Durafly Auto G2 V2 Autogyro 3D Printer File Image 1
Printable Rotor Blades for Durafly Auto G2 V2 Autogyro 3D Printer File Image 2
Printable Rotor Blades for Durafly Auto G2 V2 Autogyro 3D Printer File Image 3
Printable Rotor Blades for Durafly Auto G2 V2 Autogyro 3D Printer File Image 4
Printable Rotor Blades for Durafly Auto G2 V2 Autogyro 3D Printer File Image 5
Printable Rotor Blades for Durafly Auto G2 V2 Autogyro 3D Printer File Image 6
Printable Rotor Blades for Durafly Auto G2 V2 Autogyro 3D Printer File Image 7
Printable Rotor Blades for Durafly Auto G2 V2 Autogyro 3D Printer File Image 8
Printable Rotor Blades for Durafly Auto G2 V2 Autogyro 3D Printer File Thumbnail 1
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Printable Rotor Blades for Durafly Auto G2 V2 Autogyro 3D Printer File Thumbnail 3
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Printable Rotor Blades for Durafly Auto G2 V2 Autogyro

niklasm avatarniklasm

February 7, 2024

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Description

Replacement blades for the Durafly Auto g2 V2. 

  • The blades are designed to be printed in 3 pieces with ColorFabb LW-pla (regular PLA may also work). Print vertically with no supports, no infill, using the supplied config file. I found that rotating the blade such that the chord is at a 15deg angle relative to the y-axis gave the best prints on my Prusa Mk3s
  • The bracket is meant to be printed in regular PLA using 30% infill and supports. Print flush on the build plate with the wider screw holes facing up.

I attempted to print the blades in sections of 2 but I found that they started vibrating like a pendulum resulting in layer artifacts. splitting them into 3 sections solved the issue. I'm including files for the blades in 3, 2, and 1 pieces so you can try it on your own printer if you like. 

Airfoil is SG6042

These blades fly very well and produce no noticeable vibrations or noise. They balance pretty well right off the printer but I found a couple pieces of clear tape were required to balance them perfectly. 

Comparison to Stock:

  • AUW of each blade is 24.3g. A whole 5g lighter than stock.
  • Blade CG remains in approximately the same place (laterally and longitudinally)
  • Blade appears stiffer but I lack tools to measure
  • About 5% more blade surface area than stock
  • About 15mm longer than stock

Non-printable materials needed:

  • A single 3mm x 388mm carbon fiber rod for each blade (I just cut down a 400mm rod)
  • CA glue and Kicker

 

-------------------------BE MINDFUL OF THE AIRFOIL DIRECTION----------------------------

Directions:

  1. Print out all your parts. 
  2. Remove any support material or stringing. The holes for the CF tube typically will need to be cut open with a sharp knife. Set aside 3 of the blades and only cut open the CF hole on one side. These will be the blade ends. The rod sticks out of the left side of the airfoil!
  3. Trim your carbon fiber rod to 388mm.
  4. Test fit all parts, then disassemble. The rod sticks out of the left side of the airfoil!
  5. Lightly sand the flat sides of each of the blades until they're smooth.
  6. Thread one of the the blades with only one hole cut out (blade ends) onto the rod.
  7. Apply glue liberally to the side of the blade with the rod sticking out. Be careful not to get glue on the rod.
  8. Thread a different blade onto the rod and press it against the glued blade to mate them. Ensure the leading and trailing edges meet.
  9. Spray kicker on the seam.
  10. Repeat steps 7-8 for the other seam
  11. Remove the rod and apply glue all along it. Quickly insert it into the assembled blade. Allow to set.
  12. Now lightly sand the entire airfoil surface as best you can. Fill seams with extra glue and re-sand as needed.
  13. Apply glue to the inside edges of the bracket and the protruding section of the carbon rod. Quickly press the bracket onto the rod and hold firmly until it sets. Use Kicker as desired.

 

Disclaimer:

(If you can use the supplied gcodes the following does not apply to you)

If you have never worked with LW-PLA before, be aware that the model is designed in a very specific way to trick the slicer into printing the entire thing like a spiral vase in one continuous perimeter. Note: do not turn on spiral vase mode. It will not work.

You’ll need to visually inspect the slicer output to ensure it has not created loops or hops. You’ll also need to ensure the seam is placed internally. 

 

Like this model? Consider buying me a coffee https://paypal.me/NiklasMelton

 

EDIT: the gcode for the blade didn’t include the upper and lower surfaces. I have deleted the old one and reloaded the corrected gcode. Sorry for any issues that may have been had. 

License:

Creative Commons — Attribution — Share Alike

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