Update: I also included the Fusion 360 file so you can make adjustments. However, I did not translate it, so it's in German ;-)
This is a 1-part or 4-part housing for a Starlink standard rectangular dish. It can used as a flatmount (dish modification necessary or simply as a hail protection.
It's available in 1 part for large format printers or 4 parts for a printer with at least 300mm x 300mm buildplate.
Advantages:
Flat mount:
- in case you want to convert your dish into a flat mounted one: the housing follows the form of the dish and can be used to mark the line on the dish where it has to be cut
- 4 different parts for the cable outlet depending on where you want the cable glands (M16 thread) to be
- the 4 parts are to be screwed together, not simply glued. Additional glue ( sealing liquid (SIKA) is recommended
- there are some M4 threads on the side to mount the housing with brackets, so it can be taken off easily
Hail protection:
- the housing can be used with the original V2 dish as a hail protection, the dish does not have to be cut / modified.
There is a slight lip where the top acrylic glass fits on to the housing. With some additional acrylic it should prevent water from even getting to the seal.
What you need:
For use as a hail cover:
- the 4 printed parts (or if your printer can handle it: the one part frame). As the cable will still run through the pipe, use the STL with out PG (Cable gland threads)
- 1 acrylic glass sheet (app. 4mm thick) cut to size
- a 5.5mm or 6mm drill for the holes in the top acrylic glass
- 8 M3 screws to join the 4 printed parts
- 28 M5x15 or x20mm hex screws for the top acrylic cover, and some rubber washers to seal it
- Slingshot tubing with 4.5 to 5mm outer diameter which serves as a seal between the housing and the top acrylic glass
Additionally if you want a flat-mount:
- SIKA for mounting the bottom acrylic glass
- SIKA to seal the 4 parts and the joints
- a Dremel to cut the dish (instructions / sample videos can be found online)
- and the matching tools / skills (M16 and M5 thread cutters would be good)
- and the things I for sure forgot to mention ;-)
I did not have time to build a full prototype, so minor adjustments might be needed. The parts I printed match my dish perfectly.
The colours are not intentional. I printed with 4 printers at the same time and did not have matching material
Print parameters
- If used as a hail protection, PLA might be ok, but I advise to use at least PETG or for best UV resistance use ASA. ABS is ok, but ASA is easier to print and has better outdoor use.
- Print with a 0.6mm nozzle to save time.
- Layer height should be between 0.26mm and 0.32mm
- 4 walls should be enough with a 0.6mm nozzle. Use 5 or 6 walls with a 0.4mm nozzle
- 20% infill are ok
The threads are modelled but not optimized. I suggest that they are tapped manually. That way the screws sit tighter and no Loctite is needed.
The size of the Acrylic cover is 541mm x 332mm, with the corners at a 36mm radius. The holes should be marked once the frame is built and then drilled to app. 5.5mm to fit the M5 screws.
The description will continuously be updated.
Please note that I never finished a complete build. The areas that could need some adjustments are:
- the final size of the acrylic cover
- the depth of the groove for the rubber seal / slingshot rubber. Let me know if it has to be deeper or if it fits, so I can adjust
ALu
