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PubParts Onewheel Pint TFL Standard WTF Rails to Stock Fender Adapter 3D Printer File Image 1
PubParts Onewheel Pint TFL Standard WTF Rails to Stock Fender Adapter 3D Printer File Image 2
PubParts Onewheel Pint TFL Standard WTF Rails to Stock Fender Adapter 3D Printer File Image 3
PubParts Onewheel Pint TFL Standard WTF Rails to Stock Fender Adapter 3D Printer File Image 4
PubParts Onewheel Pint TFL Standard WTF Rails to Stock Fender Adapter 3D Printer File Thumbnail 1
PubParts Onewheel Pint TFL Standard WTF Rails to Stock Fender Adapter 3D Printer File Thumbnail 2
PubParts Onewheel Pint TFL Standard WTF Rails to Stock Fender Adapter 3D Printer File Thumbnail 3
PubParts Onewheel Pint TFL Standard WTF Rails to Stock Fender Adapter 3D Printer File Thumbnail 4

PubParts Onewheel Pint TFL Standard WTF Rails to Stock Fender Adapter

JaredIsCoding avatarJaredIsCoding

April 17, 2025

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Description

This adapter provides an interface between the angled rail screw holes on the TFL Pint Standard WTF rails and a modified FM stock Pint fender. Allows the fender to sit flatly on the rails instead of at an angle, and also provides the necessary clearance to keep the tire from rubbing against the fender.

If you're not attached to or don't need the stock fender, you can also use something like NuRxG's split fender, here!

Only one of these adapters is needed, as the front of the fender just gets screwed directly into the rails, while the rear then requires raising. I took this approach due to my use of the GT40 external batteries, which would have been impeded by modification to the front mounting point of the fender. Raising the front of the fender would also increase the size of the gap between the fender and bumper, potentially allowing dirt or moisture in more than it does already.

Theoretically, without these concerns you could print two of these and use one on each side of the fender. Let me know if you end up trying it!

Fender Modifications

You will need to cut the stock fender “cross piece” that normally sits on top of the stock Pint rails. You can use my images as reference, but essentially you're cutting it just after the curvature of the fender stops and becomes a straight rail.

Because of the raised height of the fender after making use of the adapter, you'll need to make use of your own screws. The ones I've used are: Front - M4x12, Rear - M4x20. If you find you need different lengths or things aren't reaching, just use a longer M4 screw.

Printing Instructions

Print in your preferred material with as much infill as you like, but here are some print settings recommendations:

  • 20% or higher infill
  • Supports disabled!
  • Build Plate Adhesion enabled, Brim mode (MUST BE ATTACHED TO THE MODEL)
  • 10 or more brim lines, to keep things adhered and VERY sturdy

Once configured:

  1. Print as the model lies, with no supports.
  2. Take it off your print bed when it's done and remove the brim.
  3. Install on your board. It should fit right up against any standard-angle foot pads.
  4. For the stock FM fender it will fit perfectly into the corners of the top surfaces. You may find the screw will sit slightly at an angle in the angled hole. If you want this to sit perfectly in the countersunk hole you'll need to drill into the fender further for an angled countersink.

License:

Creative Commons — Attribution

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