December 26, 2023
Description
***CLICK HERE TO GO TO THE UPDATED VERSION OF MY KANAN JARRUS SABER: https://www.printables.com/model/691865-kanan-jarrus-lightsaber-v2
This is my take on Kanan Jarrus’ lightsaber. There are plenty of them out there... but they all are missing one key feature. Kanan always removed the emitter to hide his lightsaber – so I had to have that on my mine!
A couple notes on building my saber. I made everything with tight tolerances so make sure your printers are calibrated well. Sandpaper and an X-acto knife would be good to have. You will also need a flat head screwdriver to attach the emitter tube to the shroud, and some gun/knife oil for the twist-lock section of the emitter.
I hate glue. I often want to upgrade parts on my prints and glue prevents that. My boys also tend to break things ... being able to reprint the broken part vs the entire model is a plus. Except for the charging ports, no glue is needed. All the STL files have been positioned to hide the seam as much as possible (when possible).
The Activator Assembly parts are all printed together with a color change at layer 9 (if printing at .12mm) to transition from the metallic buttons to the black housing. I have attached a pic of the activator housing with red and green painted sections that will been framed by the indicator arrow buttons (I hate painting and made it as easy as possible). I grabbed a can of forest green Rust-oleum 2x from Home Depot for the grip inserts – it comes close to what you see on Kana’s saber in Rebels.
The charging port pins are just filament cut to size and superglued to the charging port insert. I used a little stick glue on the charging port insert so it can be removed if necessary.
I printed everything in SUNLU Silk PLA+ at .12mm with 20% infill (this is plenty strong), 215-degree hot end, 60 on the bed. I used the ‘Super Quality’ preset in CURA mostly for better thread quality on the screws. The STLs have been noted if you need to print more than one. I also noted the parts that are black (everything else will be silver except for the grips).
You will need supports for the following parts:
-Activator Assembly-Activator.stl
Notes on assembly-
After you have printed all your parts, attach the activator box to the activator grip first (there is a screw that attaches it), then attach all grips to the hilt BEFORE you screw on the top cap and pommel. The grips are locked into the hilt when the top cap and pommel are attached. The side buttons on the activator are delicate so I installed them last.
Twist-lock the handguard to the hilt-top cap BEFORE you attach the shroud. This will allow you to index the shroud and hide the print seams. To attach the emitter/handguard to the hilt, you will line up the tabs in the twist-lock, push firmly until it is seated, then a 1/4 twist to lock it into place. You will need to use some knife/gun oil on the twist-lock at first since it will be very tight - but it will smooth out after a couple turns.
The shroud assembly has a locking nut which keeps the shroud from shifting from the handguard when disconnecting the emitter section from the hilt.
I have added two different pommel endcaps - one with a D-Ring to hang from your belt... and one without. Print one or both....the choice is yours.
I have attached a bunch of assembly pictures and reference photos that should make everything self-explanatory.
I hope you all enjoy this and let me know if you have any questions!
Printer Brand:
Voxelab
Printer:
Aquila X2
Rafts:
No
Supports:
Yes
Resolution:
.012mm
Infill:
20%
Filament: SUNLU Silk PLA+
Silver, Black, Gray Change log ==========
-100123 - added pommel end cap and d-ring.
-100223 - widened fins on Pommel-Pommel.stl
-100523 - corrected lead-in threading on emitter tube. Thanks to @jle2199 for spotting it!
Category: Props
License:
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike
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