Note: This mod involves mains power wiring and opening the PSU, and will likely require a licensed electrician to do so legally in your country. It is your responsibility to check your local requirements, and undertake this project accordingly.
This mod allows you to move the power supply and control board of the Ender 5 to the back of the printer.
You will need to extend the length of the cable going to the display, but I think the others will be fine. I ended up trimming and re-crimping all of mine, once I was happy with the final location.
This is intended to work with:
- Creality Ender 5 Pro (likely OK on the non-pro model, too).
- SKR Mini E3 – though it should work with the stock main board, as it has the same location for USB and mounting holes – but do check the fan clearance!
- Mean Well LRS-350-24 power supply. The mounting holes of other supplies are probably in the same location, and compatible.
- Uses the mains power switch from the original Creality housing
- Any 24V 60mm Fan (up to 15mm thick)
- Any 24V 90mm Fan
- Suitable fan guards: either 3D print the ones included here, or use your own metal ones
Other parts required:
- A Schurter 6100.3300 IEC socket
- 8*M5 bolts and 8*T-Nuts to mount to the Ender's T-slot frame
- 6*M3x6 bolts to hold the covers on (anything from M3x4 to M3x10 should work)
- 4*Countersunk M4x3 bolts to hold the PSU into the brackets (I obtained these from the original Creality housing)
- 2*M3x6 2*nuts to hold the IEC socket in
- Something to mount the fan guards to the fans
- Other miscellaneous nuts and bolts I've likely forgotten
Assembly notes:
- Depending on the accuracy of your prints, you may need to do some trimming around the USB socket with a sharp blade. I found mine was about 0.5mm out, but never looked into why.
- None of the parts are too large to print on a standard Ender 5. The largest dimension to print is 159mm, or 198mm if you print the PSU cover.
- Support may be required for the IEC socket's hole, and definitely required for the Enclosure Lid. Otherwise, standard infill and walls settings are fine.
- There is an interlocking “bump” between the Mini E3 Enclosure and LRS Bracket, may also require some trimming, that interlock to keep the final assembly solid.
- The bracket at the mains power end is a fairly tight squeeze for getting the mains wiring and switch in. I recommend insulating all exposed areas using heatshrink.
- There is space in there for a couple of DC buck regulators – I use them to generate 12V and 5V for accessories like lights, via some DC barrel sockets that mount on the underside.
- The wires carrying 24V DC power from the PSU to the main board is run “outside”, along the bottom of the assembly.
- Ensure the fans you use are 24V, as that's what the original ones likely are.
- The power supply ends up with a couple of exposed ventilation slots. Don't do what I did, and drop a metal washer into one of them while it was on.
- The replacement power supply cover must be used with a fan guard, to keep curious little fingers or clumsy fingers away from mains voltages.
- The mounting holes on the 3D printed fan guards may be a bit tight, and need to be drilled out a bit, if you're using the large self-tapping screws that fans come with.
- The 60mm fan in the enclosure cover hangs down close to the main board. The clearance is OK for the SKR Mini E3, but check carefully if you're using a different main board.
I originally put this together a year ago, so let me know if I've forgotten any information!
sstteevvee
