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Phillips Fidelio X2HR Microphone mount 3D Printer File Image 1
Phillips Fidelio X2HR Microphone mount 3D Printer File Image 2
Phillips Fidelio X2HR Microphone mount 3D Printer File Image 3
Phillips Fidelio X2HR Microphone mount 3D Printer File Image 4
Phillips Fidelio X2HR Microphone mount 3D Printer File Image 5
Phillips Fidelio X2HR Microphone mount 3D Printer File Thumbnail 1
Phillips Fidelio X2HR Microphone mount 3D Printer File Thumbnail 2
Phillips Fidelio X2HR Microphone mount 3D Printer File Thumbnail 3
Phillips Fidelio X2HR Microphone mount 3D Printer File Thumbnail 4
Phillips Fidelio X2HR Microphone mount 3D Printer File Thumbnail 5

Phillips Fidelio X2HR Microphone mount

Nikoraasu avatarNikoraasu

June 6, 2025

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Description

I designed this mount because I hate external microphones that just sit on your desk or attach to it via a boom arm. I like the mic to be mounted to my headphones, just like in my old headset, so the first thing that came to my mind was the Antlion Modmic - way too expensive for me as it costs more than the headphones that I just got.

I decided to reuse my HyperX Cloud Alpha's extension cord and microphone.

The step files for this model are freely available - if you have different headphones, or a different microphone, you can edit them and make them suit your needs.

The holder fits the original aux cable that the X2HR's come with - 8mm diameter stem housing with a smaller 6mm diameter housing right at the jack. 
The microphone and female AUX extension cable holder fits a female aux extension with a 9mm diameter housing. 

I included a version that fits the HyperX microphone, and a generic microphone version.

There are two versions:
- in the default one you will need to put the “ball joint” into the “securing ring”, and then glue the “ball joint” into the hole that is located on the “microphone and extension cord holder”
- in the glueless version the “microphone and extension cord holder” and “ball joint” come as one piece. You have a different securing ring with a cutout, that allows you to place the holder onto it without gluing anything. You then put the “ring housing” over the ring that ensures tight fit so the ball joint is not floppy when you assemble everything together. 

Then no matter the version, you just screw on the “securing ring” with the ball joint inside onto the “cable attachment”, screw it tight so the ball joint is not floppy. 
 


I made sure the ring tolerances are not too tight so it actually can be screwed onto the part, but if you run into problems, you can just scale the ring to 101%/102% and it will be alright. 

I took the ball joint from here https://www.printables.com/model/368218-lockable-ball-joint so huge thanks to “Chris (Aero)Engineering Design” for the only working lockable ball joint that I could find. 

License:

GNU General Public License v3.0

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