Recommended print settings:
- Material: PETG
- Walls: 8
- Top/bottom: 8
- Nozzle: 0.4 or 0.6
- Infill Density: 30%
- Infill pattern: Tri-Hexagon (best horizontal strength)
- Bed: 65°
- Fan: 20% max
- Adhesion: Skirt (or choose your own)
- Print & infill speed: 35mm/s
Tips for saving filament & time
- Adaptive layers: on
- Make a support blocker for each model you want to print.
- Modify settings for overlaps > Infill mesh only > Support Density > 15-20% (the “base” of the router (square-ish part) isn't compressed in the Origin, so a lot of support here isn't needed
- These are the dimensions
- For Regular Probe Fake Router: 75mm x 75mm x 77mm
- For Deep Probe Fake Router: 75mm x 75mm x 49.06mm
- Set both model and support blocker on center of plate (0, 0, 0), and once overlapped, you can move model with attached support blocker anywhere on the plate you'd like if needed.
Tips for the Steel Rod
- Place two rods in the freezer - the colder the better. Once the model is printed, have the model ready - and a metal hammer. Place the model on a flat piece of concrete, or something else strong (don't put it on tile, countertops, or anything else you're not willing to break or scratch).
- Lay the model down on this hard surface in the same orientation as you 3D printed it (with the “tip” or the router facing up)
- Quickly take one rod out of the freezer, and hammer it in from the tip down to its base. Keep hammering it until the rod is flush with the base - you should hear when the rod touches the hard surface you're on.
- If you need to fix the rod, do it quickly, or once it's set, it'll be extremely difficult to move once the temperature normalizes.
Steel Rods: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BKGZCWDT
(3/8" dia, 10" legnth) - when measured with calipers, they were 9.4mm so that's the measurement default on the fake router.
Liturgical 3D
