Another Panther Tank 1/20 scale

Decided to create this as a project to learn some of FreeCAD. This is a 1/20th scale Panther tank, a rolling model. It is not a particular historical variant, and I am sure It has some design features from different models mixed into one. I was not trying to create a historically correct model, just a model that would be reasonably fun to put together, look decent, and not send you to the hardware store for more pieces to complete.

Everything needed to assemble is printed with the exception of some fast set epoxy. The track is held together with filament. The suspension is sprung with filament. A couple clamps are nice to keep a couple things aligned as I found plastic parts can warp. The normal print clean-up tools and a 1/4 " round file was good at cleaning up holes to provide smooth rolling.

If you are crazy enough to print it, be aware it will take more than a kilo spool of filament to print full size. PLA+ was fine for all parts. I initially printed the main parts 50% scale and test fit them so you should be able to do that, but the tread would have to be redesigned and likely other parts would get small and hard to work with. 50% scale would use about 1/8 the material, 75% scale would use a bit more than 40% the material. But go big I say. While the model is fairly large the parts are sized to fit on a normal printer and I test printed it on an Ender 3. I tried to design the parts to minimize the need for supports but some need it.

Calling this thing done unless someone finds a file I messed up.

Part List

Frame

Front - 1

Back - 1

Connector - 2

Plate

Front Upper - 1

Front Lower - 1

Back - 1

Top Front - 1

Top Back - 1

Turret

Base Sleeve - 1

Base - 1

Body - 1

Top - 1

Gun Mount - 1

Lid - 1

Gun - 1

Suspension

Holder - 8

Arm Right - 8

Arm Left - 8

Arm Spacer - 20

Axle Space - 20

Holder End Block - 2

Solid Axle - 1

Drive

Drive Sprocket - 2

Drive Guard - 2

Idler Wheel Holder track tightener - 2

Track Pieces - 110

Wheels

Wheels Narrow - 8

Wheels Wide - 8

Idler Wheel - 2

Wheel Lock - 20

Various Tank decor

Front Sheet - 1

Back Sheet - 1

Rear cases - 2

Exhaust/flame arrestor - 1

Side Skirt Bracket - 2

Side Skirt - 12

Right Side Fender/tow cleat - 1

Left Side Fender/tow cleat - 1

Spare Track Bracket - 2

Print Settings

Printer Brand:

Creality

Printer:

Ender 3 Pro

Rafts:

Doesn't Matter

Supports:

Yes

Resolution:

Varied on some parts

Filament: Varied PLA+

Notes:

When slicing the nut for the track tensioner it should be scaled 110% on x and y axis and Z left at 100%, also increase the wall thickness to at least 1.6mm to be able to handle torque of tightening. The wall thickness applies to the track tensioner with the bolt as well but scaling for it should remain at 100% across all axis.

Post-Printing

Track is assembled as shown. Thread a piece of filament through each link to secure. Cleaning hole with a 2mm steel rod like a screw driver makes this a lot easier. 51 per side.

Assembly

Glue frame pieces together using the two frame connectors for added support.

Glue Suspension arm holders and end blocks into frame. Use suspension arms to hold them in the correct position until glue sets. I found cleaning up the holes with a 1/4" round file smoothed them out and made assembly easier.

install suspension arms making sure to get the left and right on correct sides use a 1mm spacer on the outside of each arm. Arm should tilt forward at about 45 degrees and the holes inside the frame should be level. Thread your favorite filament through the holes inside to hold arm in place and correct angle on each side including the end blocks. I used a nylon filament, but thinking something like a fast print TPU which is more pliant but still fairly stiff would allow the suspension more travel.

Glue front plates on frame.

Glue drive guard and front fender and tow cleat to frame/front plate. Use the solid axle through to hole in the frame to help locate them in place.

Install wheels alternating thin and wide sets. Use a 4mm spacer between suspension arm and wheel. Some dry lubricant would help with rolling but not necessary. Secure with wheel locks.

Install drive sprockets on solid axle. I used 3-1mm spacer and 1-4 mm spacer to center and align with wheels. Secure with a wheel lock.

Install track tensioner and idler wheel, initially secure with M6 nut. Later can be secured with a drop of glue once tread is installed and tensioned to your satisfaction.

Glue exhaust into back plate

Set the Turret sleeve into front cavity of frame and slide Top Plates onto frame. Grooves should locate them correctly and snap into place. They can be glued later if you desire.

Assemble Turret. Snap gun mount into turret body, glue the turret base, turret body, turret top together.

Main gun should slide into gun mount. You will need to trim a little off the bottom of the collar, I added a chin to the mantlet and the collar on the gun will need to be adjusted.

Snap in rear plate to back of frame. May need to trim one side of the M6 nuts on track tensioner for clearance.

When you are satisfied with overall fit of body parts they can be glued up permanent if desired.

Install idler wheel, use 2-4mm spacers on each to center with other wheels. Secure with wheel lock.

Assemble and install tread. Wheels and sprockets must align with each other using spacers provided to center tread properly. Use pieces of filament to link each tread piece together. I ended up with 51 per side. Loop tread around sprocket and wheels secure with one final piece of filament. Tension by rotating the tensioner to desired position/look. Secure tensioner by tightening bolt and a drop of glue.

Turret can be slipped into hole onto the sleeve inside the body at this point. Height of the turret can be adjusted by putting a shim under the sleeve to get the height to your satisfaction. Glue shim and sleeve in place when happy. I ended up putting a piece of paper towel in the sleeve to add friction to the rotation of the turret otherwise it spun too freely.

1. Add more decor to exterior if desired. There are tread brackets to hang spare tread on the body, there are cover sheets for the top plate with hatches and vents, there is a side skirt bracket and plates to add to the sides, there are storage cases for the back, or whatever you wish to add.

FYI, I glued the top plates together, clamping and reinforced the seam underneath where it would not get in the way. After that I just slid it into place gently bending over the frame crossmember. It locks into place and the back plate snapped in tight so no glue there either. Pulling out the turret would let you take the back plate and top plate off in the future if needed.

Hopefully this helps, sorry if I forgot something.

Category: Models