Chromance - RGB Wall Remix

This project is a remix of Zack Freedman's Chromance. 
 

Key enhancements include:

• Optimized Part Design:
  All parts are designed to be support-free, featuring built-in supports suitable for a 0.6 nozzle. Supports can be easily removed with needle-nose pliers.
   
• ESP32 D1 Mini Mount:
  Incorporated a custom mount for the ESP32 D1 Mini in the bottom node with an optional INMP441 Omnidirectional Microphone Module.
   
• Versatile Node Design:
  Added a "solid" node option alongside the open node. This allows selective opening of facets with a knife for customized light patterns. Both node styles use the same middle node for simplicity. I still like the original open design.
   
• Lighting and Control:
  WLED Over Custom OS: Unlike the original which used a custom OS, this version utilizes WLED configured for GPIO 16 on the ESP32.
   
• LED Configuration: 
  The design features a continuous run of 560 WS2812B LEDs. A diagram (created in Paint, sorry) and a detailed path.txt file are provided for guidance.
   
• Custom Programming Potential: For those interested in custom programming, Arduino code is provided to map each LED segment. This allows for creative programming using FastLED.
   
• Sample Configuration Files: 
  I have included sample configs for both the normal and audioreactive versions. Both use 3 types of presets, string, segments, mandla. Start with one of the base presets and tweak them from there. This allows for the most options for displays. The segments and mandla versions I have created to be symmetrical.
   
• Extra Guest Preset Html: 
  I have included an extra preset-html.txt file that you can rename to preset.html and upload to the WLED device using the http://WLED/edit link, it will allow you to just select presets and nothing else, no editing, no deleting, safe for guests to select presets but nothing else.

Parts List and Links:

(Note: Prices may vary, I paid about $200 to make mine, so it's advisable to shop around for the best deals.)

1x 5V 15A 75W Power Supply $21
 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K9Q4DV1

2x WS2812B RGB 5050SMD Individual Addressable 16.4FT 60Pixels/m 300Pixels $66
 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CDTEG1O

1x Aluminum Extrusion Profile $50
 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078J143MN

1x ESP32 D1 Mini ESP-32 $16
 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FWXFSVN

INMP441 Omnidirectional Microphone Module
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09G4RNT3G

1x 10ft 14AWG 12V DC Extension Cable $15
 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08L6LJ5F4

1x 22 AWG Stranded Wire Silicone $20
 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089D29FHC

1x Kapton High Temp Tape $9
 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072Z92QZ2

1x Epoxy $6
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Instant-0-47-Fluid-Syringe-1365868/dp/B0044F9KFI/

(Zack Freedman has instructions on his page if you get hung up, here are mine)

Assembly Instructions:

3D Printing: Print various nodes as detailed:

3D print 19 RegularNode-19x.stl models.
3D print 3 TopCenterNode.-3x.stl models.
3D print 1 TopRightNode-1x.stl model.
3D print 1 TopLeftNode-1x.stl model.
3D print 1 BottomCenterNodeD1Mini-v2.-1x.stl model.
3D print 1 BottomCenterNodeD1MiniCover-v2.-1x model.

Preparing Aluminum Rails and Covers:

• Miter Box Setup: 

Acquire a miter box and attach a movable endstop to create a jig. This will help in making 80 precise cuts.

• Cutting Aluminum Rails: 

Set the endstop to measure 25cm and cut the aluminum rails to this length. You'll need to cut 40 pieces.

• Adjusting for White Covers: 

After cutting the rails, adjust the endstop to 23cm for cutting the 40 white covers.

Gluing and Soldering:

• Epoxy Preparation: 

Mix small batches of Epoxy at a time. Use it to glue a few rails to the nodes. Aim to complete about 4 nodes before each epoxy batch begins to set.

• Protecting Surfaces: 

Place blue painter's tape beneath each glued joint to protect the floor from any epoxy drips.

• Curing: 

Allow the glued rails and nodes to cure for 24 hours.

Preparing LED Strips:

• Cutting LED Strips: 

Divide both LED strips into 40 segments, each containing 14 LEDs.

• Tinning LED Contacts: 

Tin all 240 LED solder points (3 on each side of each strip).

Wiring and Insulation:

• Insulating with Kapton Tape: 

Apply Kapton tape on the rails directly under where each LED strip ends to prevent short circuits during later soldering.

• Cutting Wires: 

Cut 74 red and 74 black 22 AWG wires to a length that suits your setup.

Also, cut 13 smaller gauge wires for data lines.

• Additional Data Wires: 

Prepare 2 smaller gauge data wires to bridge two node paths (S to Y and U to I). Secure them out of the way with hot glue (avoiding the channel the diffuser will snap into).

Daisy-Chain and Soldering:

• Creating Daisy-Chains: 

Form daisy-chains of wires in each color (red and black).: 
10 with 3-wires
2 with 4-wires
4 with 5-wires 
1 with 6-wires 
 

• Tinning Daisy-Chains: 

Tin each end of the daisy-chain wires, trimming the ends to about 3mm. Ensure the twists are tight to avoid unraveling.

• Soldering to Nodes: 

Solder these chains at every node with more than two connections, ensuring each strip is connected at every node to two other strips.

• Bottom Strip Wiring: 

Connect the LED strips at the bottom to each other, the ESP32 D1 Mini, and the power connector. Use shrink tubing to insulate the connections.

Final Steps:

• Securing the D1 Mini: 

Choose a method to secure the D1 Mini in place. I hot-glued mine.

• Soldering Final Connections: 

Solder the 11 wires (5 red, 5 black, 1 green) to the two strips in the base and the D1 Mini.

• Inserts and Cover: 

Heat press in two 3mm brass inserts and secure the cover with screws.

• Programming: 

Program the ESP32 D1 mini using https://install.wled.me/

Follow the instructions here if you want it audio reactive with the INMP441.
https://mm.kno.wled.ge/WLEDSR/Digital-Microphone-Hookup/

My WLED configuration and preset files are available for use in downloads.

My TinkerCAD files:

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/7RWmKyJCPZG-chromance-rgb-wall-remix

Note that this is 560 LEDs, at full brightness they can pull 23 Amps (110 watts).

The power supply I used was 15A, so I have capped it in WLED to 11A.

YOU CAN BURN YOUR HOUSE DOWN IF YOU TRY TO RUN THIS AT FULL BRIGHTNESS FOR A PERIOD OF TIME! (and burn up the power supply you used)

YOU CANNOT USE THOSE GREEN TERMINALS LIKE I HAVE IN ONE OF MY EARLIER PICTURES, THEY ARE 3A ONLY AND WILL MELT AND START A FIRE!

I still don't trust leaving mine on unattended yet, and neither should you, this thing pulls real current (hence the 22 AWD wire I used everywhere between nodes).

Videos of mine in action:

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/OPd5J3CVa2g

• Here is the link to Zack's Video (it also contains links to his original version and his instructions)

https://thangs.com/designer/ZackFreedman/3d-model/Chromance%20-%20RGB%20Wall%20Installation-15979

 https://voidstar.dozuki.com/Guide/Chromance+Assembly+Instructions/6

Print Settings

Printer Brand:

VoronDesign

Printer:

Voron Trident 350

Supports:

No

Infill:

20%

Notes:

I used a 0.6 nozzle and 0.3 layer height.

The built-in supports are designed for 0.6 so that they are 1 thickness wide.

The built-in supports are designed with a 0.3 layer height so that the upper overhangs are 1 layer above the top of the supports.

Category: Sculptures