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Vintage Style Potentiometer Knob 3D Printer File Image 1
Vintage Style Potentiometer Knob 3D Printer File Image 2
Vintage Style Potentiometer Knob 3D Printer File Image 3
Vintage Style Potentiometer Knob 3D Printer File Image 4
Vintage Style Potentiometer Knob 3D Printer File Image 5
Vintage Style Potentiometer Knob 3D Printer File Thumbnail 1
Vintage Style Potentiometer Knob 3D Printer File Thumbnail 2
Vintage Style Potentiometer Knob 3D Printer File Thumbnail 3
Vintage Style Potentiometer Knob 3D Printer File Thumbnail 4
Vintage Style Potentiometer Knob 3D Printer File Thumbnail 5

Vintage Style Potentiometer Knob

Gareth42 avatarGareth42

January 9, 2024

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Description

I reverse engineered the stl files from DraftYeti's knob in OnShape so I could make some changes. The knob is more or less the same on the outside, with some minor tweaks, fillets and chamfers, that sort of thing.

I noticed the original, depending on how you held it to twist, had some uncomfortable sharp corners, which I promptly knocked off with a chamfer and a fillet. Additionally, the inside of the original, while faithful to the Boss knob, I'm sure, wasn't very optimised for 3D printing. I added more chamfers to that to eliminate the need for support material. The way the top round bit connected also created areas that needed support, so I changed that to remove the small pin on the bottom, such that now the body of the knob requires no support at all to print. I changed the inside to also include teeth to interface with the ridges present on potentiometers.

Print Settings

Printer: 

Ender 3 Pro

Supports: 

No

Resolution:

0.3 mm

Notes:

printed with a 0.6mm nozzle and the printer is running Klipper and input shaper, so that's why the prints look smoother than the model.

Post-Printing

Painting

An entirely optional step. I didn't have any good filament colors for what I wanted so I went with painting.

Painted using acrylic model paints. Paint the top cap separately from the body and then glue together.

Model editing for better fitment

At the moment, the model is dimensioned so that everything fits coming off my printer. However, that is almost certainly not the case with your printer. As such, I've uploaded the STEP files. Additionally, since this was designed in OnShape, the full CAD is available to the public via the link below. Anyone with a free OnShape account can copy the document and edit it as much as they want.

The two main things to look for clearance-wise are Move Face 1 (cap to body clearance) and Move Face 2 (clearance for fitment onto potentiometer shaft).

https://cad.onshape.com/documents/80374533b8718ad4180d0189/w/95d15017d8eeaf113c02bc76/e/a5f0a896132af86885cdaf8e?renderMode=0&uiState=64b0b0461e66c934cd3b4412

 

 

 

Category: Hobby

License:

Creative Commons — Attribution

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