This is designed to be used with a single cable docking station (USB-C for power delivery plus display port alt mode for external monitors) but due to the very open simple design it should also work with other styles of docking stations requiring multiple cables connected to the laptop. I'm running Windows, so I went into the control panel and set Windows to “do nothing” when I close the lid when it's plugged in and for when it's running on battery. The steps to do this are below. I believe this is all doable with a Macbook as well - but - I do not have one handy at the moment to write out and test in MacOS.
No supports are required when printing.
The left and right brackets have a built-in backstop and have an airgap above the laptop. If you feel these are inadequate, I've included optional 25mm risers to create a larger airgap as well as an optional rear bracket that acts as an additional backstop.
NOTES:
- If you modify your laptop power settings to ‘do nothing’ when you close the lid, you have to put your laptop to sleep or power it off before transporting it in any kind of bag or backpack. If you do not, your laptop could possibly overheat. You've been warned :)
- To adjust your Windows settings (Win11/10) - click the start button and type in the word ‘lid’. You should see an option titled [change what closing the lid does]. It is in this menu option that you can toggle the behavior of your laptop when closing the lid.
- I also changed my settings to turn the internal screen off when using my docking station. With your docking station connected, right click on your desktop and pick display settings. Select your internal laptop screen and pick the dropdown menu (probably labeled [duplicate desktop…] or [extend desktop…]) and change the option to [disconnect this display] and voila. When your docking station is connected, windows will remember this setting and turn off your internal screen. When unplugged, it will go back to your prior setting.
- I've included a generic drawing of just the required bits to show dimensional data so that you can figure out placement under your own desk taking into account the size of your laptop, wire pathways, etc.
- This was built to easily accomodate laptops up to 20mm thick (about ¾") - this still leaves a bit of clearance to easily slide your laptop in and out of the brackets.
Print Settings:
- Printer: Creality Ender 3 S1 (just what I printed on, I'm not implying you have to use this one)
- I used standard Inland brand matte finish PLA (nozzle temp 215C, bed temp 60C)
- Print speed: 150mm/sec with regular filament as pictured
- Supports: no
- Infill: 15%
- If you want to use the risers to create an additional airgap (see pics for reference), you will need to print one riser per screwhole - 9 in total if using the optional rear bracket. I've made the riser to be 25mm tall and accommodate a #8 drywall screw - they make great wood screws especially for attaching things to the underside of a worksurface.
The screwholes are sized for #8 drywall screws (the holes are not threaded). I designed this project to work for #6 drywall screws, but found that it helps to go up a size when printing at higher speeds due to tolerances going out the window. The through-holes on the bottom of the brackets should be big enough for you to get both the head of the screw through plus a standard driver bit attached to a drill (or a screwdriver).
This is version 1, as soon as I installed it my mind started racing with other ideas. If I get around to it I might modify this project and post the revisions. I'm toying with the ideas like an under-desk or under-worksurface bracket to hold a docking station, a vertical desktop laptop bracket, and a vertical wall-mount laptop bracket.
Scott B
