July 9, 2026
Description
If you are planning for colorwork, then this yarn mast is a possible choice. It is mounted to the same post mounts as the ribber on the camshell and will turn around the center of CSM while you are knitting.
You need the camshell with side-mount ribber posts to use this attachment.
The cone holder is optimized for Royal-compatible cones.
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EDIT 07/06/26:
Thanks to wonderful MHW we now have a tested mast top for the wider eew style cone holder, and she also tested the new TRU-KNIT mast foot (25mm), which definitely adds more stability - sooo nice! I added some new spring arms especially for this mast top, even though it will work with the old ones, too. There is a new image where you can see what has been modified.
EDIT 03/06/26:
- Added a variation for the TRU-KNIT mast foot with longer (25mm) pins. Maybe this can add a little bit more stabilization for heavier load on the yarn holder.
- Tilted the slit in the front eyelet which may help keeping the yarn from slipping out.
- FWIW, I add two UNTESTED and UNREVIEWED mast feet for a Gustav Nissen and a Erlbacher Gearhart Modern CSM - they were requested by users, but sadly I never got any feedback. There are two versions, one with a printed stabilitzation pin, but as this pin is rather tiny, I added a second variation with a hole, where you can simply put a bolt with a nut in to fix it. - PLEASE, IF SOMEONE IS USING IT SUCCESSFULLY, LET ME KNOW! And if I should change something, please too!
EDIT 22/06/26:
There is a cone holder variant for the eew winder cones (Thanks, MHW!), but it is completely untested, at least by me, as it was only made because of a user request.
EDIT 09/01/26:
Thanks to wonderful NuttyNewfie we now have a mast foot that fits an old Creelman Money Maker (see photo) with a cylinder diameter of 130cm. You just need the standard main M4 nut for the mast rod.
EDIT 29/01/25:
Yarn mast top, both yarn arms and brakes have been changed slightly to be a bit stronger overall. There have been some reports of broken arms and the linkage between them and the yarn top. Besides that I recommend printing all parts at least with 4 perimeters (better 6) and maybe the arms in PETG or ABS for better strength, though it should work with PLA with the current changes, too.
I removed the yarn arm variants and cleaned up the files, as the angled one is the only one supported from now on.
EDIT 01/03/24:
Thanks to wonderful Joann Grubb we now have a mast foot that fits the TRU-KNIT CSM by Jamie Mayfield (see photo). You need two M3 screws/nuts for stabilization additionally to the main M4 nut for the mast rod.
EDIT 16/1/24:
I added a slightly modified yarn arm and weights in a separate folder. The yarn arm here is angled outside at its end to give a little more clearance for the weight. Choose the one you like the most.
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8mm linear rod (mine is about 450 mm tall, choose whatever length you like, but I think everything starting with 450mm is ok)
M4 screw 16mm (3x)
M4 nut (3x)
M3 screw 20mm (2x, yarn brake)
M3 screw 16mm (2x, yarn arm)
BBs, 4.5mm (weights)
split rings (2x, weights)
See CAD picture on how things go together.
Position and orient the parts, so that you minimize support, especially the path where the yarn will go throught, or you will have to sand everything smooth.
I recommend printing
min. 4 perimeters, better 6 - infill is not that important, especially for yarn top and arms
the yarn arms standing upright with tree support, block support at ends, see picture
the yarn brake on its nose (where the hook is) without any support
Regarding how accurate your printer is, you may have to postprocess aka sand the loops where the yarn will be guided through to be totally smooth and without any residue from printing.
For adding BBs to the mast weights, add a print pause at layer 139, fill them with BBs and resume print.
there is a really cool alternative (thanks, for the hint, Marie!):
I noticed that the yarn can sometimes slip out of the front eyelet when the springs are engaged. This depends a bit on overall mast height and the angle at which the yarn comes down to the cylinder. I usually use a little clip to close the slit where the yarn is fed into the eyelet and that fixes it - take a close look at the first picture and you can see it.
This is a first attempt for a colorwork yarn mast. As I am clearly not experienced enough in colorwork per se so that I could easily see what could be designed better, I appreciate every comment to improve the design!
License:
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike
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