January 31, 2024
Description
additional parts
1) o-rings
Next to the printed piece itself two rubber o-rings with the following specs are needed:
outer diameter = 26mm
inner diameter = 20mm
thickness = 3mm
The get inserted into the printed grooves and act as a slip-free and rattle-free interface layer.
2) fur / windjammer
Also you will need some kind of windjammer. Mine are from Rycote. They make really nice ones although they are pricey: https://www.thomann.de/de/rycote_baby_ball_gag_windjammer.htm . Ideally your windjammer slows down winds while acoustically beeing transparent.
Â
versions
I included two versions. One without any support structures and one including two single layer support structures which help on the precision of the o-ring grooves. Choosing the version with the minimal support structures youll have to remove these after printing. I do this in a few seconds using a deburring knife.
Â
license
Im releasing this as CC0 / public domain. Do whatever you want to do with it and have fun. Id like to hear from your experience. And maybe you have some ideas to improve the design? Share it and let me know! =)
Â
more info
The previous developement of this project can be read on https://jwsoundgroup.net/index.php?/topic/34162-3d-printed-blimp/ .
Notes:
Print with the mic mount facing down. A 10mm outside brim might be a good idea to secure the print on the printbed.
I print this using PLA since the model heavily makes use of bridging and steep overhangs. Using the lowest temperatures possible allows for the material to cool down quickly.
I print on 180°C with 40mm/s, 0.2mm layer height and without a heated bed. My printbed is a sheet of glass with a sheet of PEI glued on top. My print time is around 6h.
After printing some strings may have drooped. I cut these off by using a deburring knife.
For the function of the print it doesnt have to look nice but provide space around the capsule.
Â
Update, 31.01.2023
STEP file has been added to allow for easier remixes.
License:
Creative Commons — Public Domain