FLSun SR Enclosure Cable Channel Mod parts

NOT AN ENTIRE ENCLOSURE

To be used as alternative R2 and R4 parts for Kreme's enclosure (https://www.printables.com/model/405015-flsun-sr-enclosure)

For those who would like to run the power cables neatly up the side of the printer, use these files instead of the R2 and R4 included in the main model.

Print settings:

Ensure that the cable channel hook thing has 2 walls. Only 1 wall makes a mess and breaks apart. This should happen by default for a 0.4mm nozzle, but just check it.

Use supports for the cable hole in the top of R4, this is covered from the outside by the channel and the inside by the cable itself, so doesnt need to be perfect.

Run the same settings as you are with the rest of the uprights.

I used PETG, which gives the channel a bit of flexibility, you may need to take care inserting cable if using a more rigid filament.

Installation:

Build the right side per the main instructions including all the Tnuts

Power off the printer and unplug (safety first!)

Unscrew and unplug the power cable from the top

Gently remove the cable from the upright extrusion (if applicable). Do not force it, you can strain wires that way, you may need to rotate and push and tickle to get it out, take your time.

Rest the bottom of the assembled right side on the base (next to the print bed) on the right side of the printer

begin pushing the cable into the new channel. Dont worry too much about having enough cable at the bottom or top, once the cable is in the channel, there is enough clearance to easily pull it either way without resistance.

Make sure the plug goes through the hole at the top of R4

Install side, being careful not to snag the cable with your screwdriver when going through the channel

Adjust the cable slack inside and at the bottom so you have enough to plug it in

Plug the cable back in the top and screw in

Adjust the cable slack inside and at the bottom so it looks pretty!

Things I've learned printing this enclosure that may help you:

I printed with PETG, so not all of these may apply to all.

Print the Left and Right bottom sections (Bottom, mid, 1, 2) then the door followed by the rest. My prints got better finish as the enclosure got built (same settings etc). The bottom parts of the enclosure are the most important IMO as that is actually where the printing happens. This also means that if you run out of the filament you are using before getting to the top of the left and right, you still have a functional enclosure.

Print the uprights with the short side facing one of the extrusions/motors/belts. I found that my pointing the sort side to my rear motor stopped these from being knocked off the bed, also caused less ‘ripples’ towards the top of the print. I am guessing there may be an imbalance between my motors or something, but it is too small to pinpoint in the testing I have done, everything is exaggerated with 300mm of leverage.

Use Arcs! This is a curvy model, arcs will make it look better and cut down a surprising amount of print time. I am just annoyed that the feature didnt come out till I had nearly completed my enclosure.