Are you tired of minimalist WDT tools? “Don't buy” the recent shaker cup hype? Hate having to turn a spirographic WDT tool by hand? (ewww manual labour!!)
Want a WDT tool that fits over the top of your overengineered Sworks funnel? Do you think that everything should be USBC rechargeable?
Want a WDT tool that operates at the speed of light obliterating clumps in nanoseconds? (Potential exaggeration and/or untested claim, but this thing is FAST, see notes on motor speed below)
If you said “yes” to any / all of the above, this print might be for you 😂
Ok jokes aside, this is a pretty niche tool so I doubt many people will build it, uploading just in case anyone has a free weekend and wants a fun print to dig into. It's a remix of Kensei's awesome design, but adds the following things:
Motorized with a crazy fast 2,000 rpm DC motor. Which after gear ratio, still gets you quite a few turns per second on the actual distribution. (Optional slower motors usable too - read the parts and options notes below.)
No programmable microcontrollers involved, so it's one less hassle to deal with when building it.
Re-chargeable Lipo battery and USB-C re-charging module
Nylon bearing to make it super lightweight despite the bulky looking print
Most awesome component in my puck prep workflow and “sparks joy” every day lol
High speed motor example:
Full workflow - low speed motor (option):
Needle pattern - high speed motor option:
BOM parts you'll need (or similar alternatives):
You can use any equivalent parts that you can get cheaper / more easily locally. I am only including a suggested BOM for people who may not know what to get. The battery in particular, probably much easier sourced locally. You also don't need such a big battery, if you are happy to charge more frequently.
Mechanical:
4x M3x12 screws with small heads
1x M3x14 or M3x16 screw. Ideally bigger flat head (this is for the adjustable needle holder)
1x (optional) MT3608 DC Boost Converter / step up module - Only needed if you are using the 2000 RPM motor
1x 3.7V 1200mAh LiPo battery or any equivalent, the capacity really is up to you but it needs to be small enough in physical size to fit in the unit's space
All prints should be support-less, if you are seeing the need for supports, try flipping orientation and re-checking in the slicer.
Suggest printing in low print heights like 0.16mm for a nicer finish. I use lots of fillets and chamfers so those look nicer in higher detail.
STEP files are included so you can make adjustments if needed to improve tolerances for your printer. I also find STEP files print much cleaner that STL on my printer, but that's probably just my slicer playing up. Anyway I recommend using the STEPs if you can.
Assembly for the printed parts is "simple" 😂 :
Put the Funnel Collar through the Main Body. it should clip into place using the placement tabs inside.
Install the motor into the Motor housing, again this should clip in. Make sure you have soldered in your leads to the motor because after this the terminals wont be accessible.
Screw in the Motor Housing onto the Central Gear Housing using small countersunk screws. Use the conduit in the main body to move the leads through for connection later.
Place the Central gear housing into the main body just above the Funnel Collar. This should all fit in properly now.
Install the big 6813 bearing into the Central gear housing now.
Install the Small Motor gear onto the motor. Should just clip into place.
Push the Top Ring Gear through the 6813 bearing now and it should overlap with the motor gear - which will drive it.
Install the switch into the Top Cover.
Wire up all your electronic components now including the battery.
Test that pressing the switch actuates the motor correctly.
Then push the top cover into place.
Screw in small countersunk screws on the top and bottom of the top cover.
Screw in long screws through the two holes on the top, this will go through the gear housing and keep things tight!
Turn this baby over!
Install all the gears into the Top Ring Gear using the small head screws. Make sure to install the small bearings into the gears that take them.
If you want to use the adjustable needle holder, do this by placing a screw into it from the slot on the top. This can be a bit fiddly, I'm sorry! Place this over your basket and tighten this by pushing it out to the outside. Make sure the hole part of this holder is on the edge and not inside.
Use pliers to safely install acupuncture needles (the type with handles) into the 9 holes.
Needle placement tips: BE CAREFUL DON'T POKE YOURSELF. Trial and error to get the height correct for your basket and Portafilter.
Cut 3-4 needles 10-15mm shorter. This will give you better distribution at different depths.
Now pull a shot and revel in the totally unnecessary amount of time you wasted putting this together! ENJOY!!
The electronics require soldering, and I might include a circuit diagram later if people really want, but essentially its just:
Connect the TP4056 charging module to the battery and “power out” to the toggle switch
Connect the USB charging socket (if using this) to the 4056 "power in" terminals
Also connect the toggle switch to the voltage step up module
Calibrate the voltage module to output to 6V and connect it to the 2,000 rpm motor
Note: If using the slower 1,000 rpm motor, you can directly connect the toggle switch to the motor, and don't need the step up module
Ensure polarity +ve / GND is correct on all connections, don't trust any connectors, use a multimeter to test polarity
Options:
Some things are optional. You can make a decision about how much of this “full design" you need.
Overall weight / hand feel:
Ok so you can choose between the metal or nylon bearings and it makes a huge difference to hand feel. I have used both and can totally see someone preferring the heavier metal option as it feels solid as.
The nylon one is MUCH lighter and I just prefer this personally, it may also make a difference to increasing the speed of the device. I haven't measured this difference so YMMV.
Motor speed:
I suggest two motors. One is slower at half the speed of the other one, but the slower motor runs off the 3.3V battery directly and does not require the voltage step up module. The faster motor needs to be stepped up to 6V.
Watch the embedded GIFs above to get an idea of the speed differences and see if you want the faster one or not. It's a simpler assembly with the slower motor.
USB-C socket:
This component is totally optional, but looks super cool and gives you easy access to a charge port on the bottom of the tool.
If you want to skip it, you can just leave a long USB-C cable plugged into the re-charge module through the bottom gap where this socket would fit.
Adjustable needle holder:
This piece is optional, you only need this if you are finding you are getting a ring around the inside of the basket. I do use it myself, but not everyone would need it.
Disclaimer:
As usual, any damage caused while trying to build, use, print this is your own responsibility. Exercise caution and your own judgement, you take full responsibility if you choose to use this. Food safety etc etc. Do your own research, I take no responsibility for anything that may or may not happen to you or anyone else as a result of using and / or trying to use and / or not using this.
Note on licence / commercial use:
If you want to print / build this for people and want to charge a small markup, go ahead. I just don't like people charging significant markups while printing other people's designs and running it as an Etsy etc store.
If you make improvements, please post the remix and ideally publish the STEP files.
dweller
