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Enclosure Power panel with XT60 and XT30 3D Printer File Image 1
Enclosure Power panel with XT60 and XT30 3D Printer File Image 2
Enclosure Power panel with XT60 and XT30 3D Printer File Image 3
Enclosure Power panel with XT60 and XT30 3D Printer File Image 4
Enclosure Power panel with XT60 and XT30 3D Printer File Image 5
Enclosure Power panel with XT60 and XT30 3D Printer File Thumbnail 1
Enclosure Power panel with XT60 and XT30 3D Printer File Thumbnail 2
Enclosure Power panel with XT60 and XT30 3D Printer File Thumbnail 3
Enclosure Power panel with XT60 and XT30 3D Printer File Thumbnail 4
Enclosure Power panel with XT60 and XT30 3D Printer File Thumbnail 5

Enclosure Power panel with XT60 and XT30

Si1verEag1e avatarSi1verEag1e

February 12, 2024

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Description

Taking the opportunity of upgrading from i3 to MK3.5, i decided to rework the way i connect my PSU (which is relocated outside of my LACK enclosure).
The new board has metal case, and thus must have the earthing line added, so my old solution became obsolete anyway.

Hardware used:

  • 2 Pairs of XT60
  • 3 pairs of XT30
  • 4 M3x15-20 countersunk screws
  • 4 4mm woodscrews (5mm length is enough)

2 pairs of XT60 connectors for the main power, an XT30 fot the Power Panic, another for the earthing (connected to both pins) and a third optional pair for the LED strips (wired as a parallel parasite to the pair powering the heatbed - I had no issue on the i3 board, but i need to do more testing, if the new one is ok with lights stealing some power - use at your own risk!)

The panel is meant to be permanently mounted in the LACK table board, the Stencil part  is meant only as a helper for drilling/cutting. (In case you newer cut into IKEA “board”, be prepared for disappointment: there is only less than 2mm of basically laminated cardboard on the outside and the majority is a paper honeycomb) Drill four holes for the screws, the smaller bit the better, and then the inside parts - the Stencil has separated window to show where the additional “lights” connector is, but you have to cut a connection in the table!

There is also a “hole liner” for the bottom of the table - it's big enough to get all the wires through even with the terminal “forks” attached - the Power Panic connector must go first.

I optimized the connector holes to press-fit the connectors (i actually used a wise to get them in) that i had without the need to glue, depending on your brand, you might need to tweak it in a CAD SW (done in Fusion360). Solder all the wires before you press the connectors in!

License:

Creative Commons — Public Domain

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