April 5, 2024
Description
I like the idea to use two or three IKEA Lack tables to build an enclosure. Therefore i designed my own IKEA Lack enclosure with some improvements. That enclosure fits my needs better than some existing enclosure designs.
A lot of my design choices were made based on the existing IKEA Lack Enclosure V2: https://blog.prusaprinters.org/mmu2s-printer-enclosure_30215/
The files contain 3 different variants of the enclosure:
All of these versions have got a removable top cover.
This is using the IKEA Lack tabletop.
This top cover supports the MMU2S. This is the cover you can see on the pictures (mine is at the moment not painted).
With 2 hinges it can be opened.
I printed and tested all the parts in PETG.
For the pro version I highlighted the parts for the spool storage section (middle table) with [a]. This is also an indication for printing these parts in an accent color (mine was orange).
It is a modular design. Therefore i am explaining assembly of the individual modules. These can be combined to fit your needs.
The main screws you have to use are the 3.5x12mm screws. When there are different screws used, it will be mentioned!
Cut the head of four M4x30 screws off, so that the lentgh of the threaded part is 24mm.
[red] Into every hinge-part you have to insert a M4 rod with a length of 24mm
[orange] the rounded corner of the hinge has to be at the outside of the part.
This process must be repeated for all hinges.
In this section the build process of the enclosure is going to be explained. This part can be screwed on top a IKEA Lack Table or on top of the Filament Spool storage.
2.1] Cornerparts and acrylic sheet holders:
[red] At first you have to screw on the corner parts (with the 3.5x12 wood screws). At the rear the corner parts, at the front the hinge corner parts. Four screws for every corner and 8 screws for every side.
[blue] NO acrylic glass holder at the side where the hinge mechanisms are located!
From this on the “Front” is where the hinges are.
[green] At the location of the green circle you can drill a hole through with a 12mm drillbit.
[orange] You can put your 3D printer on this component and mark the hole for the cables. This hole can be afterwards cut through. (the position of the orange rectangle is symbolic)
2.2] Screwing on the Lack feet:
[red] The feet have to be screwed on as shown in this picture.
2.3] Cable channel:
[green] On the front left foot there has to be two glass holders installed. (not for the glass - for the cables of the LED strip)
[red] Screw it to the foot.
2.4] Inserting the acrylic side panels:
Now you can insert the acrylic side panels.
The first few steps of the assembly are done!
2.5] Top frame preperation:
In this section you are going to assamble the top frame of the enclosure.
You can find the plans for the wooden frame attached as a PDF file (Top_Frame_size_plan.pdf).
[red] Take the top wooden frame and screw on the corner hinge part and the acrylic glass holders.
[orange] Repeat this process around the frame, as shown in the right picture.
Then mount the led holder inside the frame.
2.6] routing the led strip cables and attaching the led strip:
[orange] Starting point of the led strip. Here comes the cable of the led power supply.
[green] Install the led strip into the led holders.
[blue] For more light, you can attach another led strip between the led holders and the acrylic glass holders.
Later it will look like that:
Flip the frame on to the other side!
[red] Complete the top frame assembly, by attaching the 4 corner elements.
2.7] Attaching the frame to the bottom part:
[red] Put the frame on the bottom part. Make sure that the acrylic glasses are in the grooves frome the glass holders.
[green] Secure the corners of the top part with the feet using screws.
2.8] Installing the front doors:
[red] Take the Clear acrylic sheet: 444x220mm, 3mm thickness and install the grips (the next picture shows exactly how to do this)
[green] Then slot on the corner peaces and secure them using some glue. The thinner wall of the corner part should be at the left side
[green] You have to drill two holes through the acrylic sheet (4.5mm). Install the grip with two M4x16mm screws (do not forget to insert M4 Hex nuts into the back part of the grip).
[red] thin wall must be oriented to the longer side of the glass panel.
[green] Inside the corner cover is a hole for one 10mm x 2mm magnet. Before you glue on the cover you have to insert it.
Repeat this process for both doors!
2.9] Inserting the acrylic glass doors into the enclosure assembly:
[red] Insert the doors as shown in the picture. Secure the using some glue.
2.10] Installing the doorstoppers:
[green] Insert and glue in 2 magnets. Make sure to put them in with the right polarity!
The doors should be attracted by the magnets.
[red] Screw the doorstoppers on (it should be centered). The doors have to sit flush with the front side of the tabletop.
Repeat this process for the top doorstopper.
In this section the top cover is going to be assembled.
3.1.1] Installing the corners:
[red] Install the corners on the underside of the IKEA Lack tabletop.
[blue] Insert the Clear acrylic sheet: 440x60mm, 2mm thickness into the left and the right slot and into the grooves of the top cover glass holders. Then screw the glass holders on.
[orange] Secure the wood stripes with screws.
[green] You also can make handle cutouts to ensure easier handling of the top cover.
3.2.1] Installing the corners:
You have to follow the steps of 3.1.1] accept for installing the part onto a frame (frame shown in 2.5])
[blue] Frame (PDF file “Top_Frame_size_plan.pdf”)
The wooden plate on top of this cover consists of two parts:
You can connect them with two hinges. The bigger plate can be mounted at the back side, so that the front plate can be opened.
In this section the filament spool storage is going to be built.
How to assemble the hinges was explained in 1].
4.1] Cornerparts:
Like in 2.1] you first have to install the cornerparts and the panelholders.
[red] Cornerelements:
[green] [a]_glass_holder_strip_bottom_x2.stl
[blue] [a]_wood_plate_cover_x8.stl
[red] Insert and glue in one magnet into each corner (1 and 2)
4.2] Screwing on the Lack feet:
[red] The feet have to be screwed on as shown in this picture.
4.3] IKEA Lack tabletop preperation:
Now we are assembling the top corners of the spool storage system.
[red] Cornerparts:
[blue] [a]_wood_plate_cover_x8.stl
4.4] Attaching the top the bottom part:
Look this step in 2.7] up.
4.5] Side Panel preperation and installation:
[red] Take a measurement and make a cutout for the PSU. Mine also has a cutout for the LED controll unit.
[red] Screw on the cover for the wooden side panel. [a]_glass_holder_strip_top_x2.stl
[blue] Install the corner connectors.
[red] Insert and glue in one magnet into each corner.
Then you can install the PSU and the sidepanel.
[red] Inside the spool storage you have to install the angle bracket. This supports the side panel.
4.6] Side acrylic glass panel:
Install and glue in the corner parts.
Do not forget to insert the magnet with the right polarity. (the holes for the magnets have to be at the backside of the panel)
[red] The thinner wall of the parts has to face to the red arrows.
The door handles can be installed like in 2.8]
4.7] Installing the front doors:
Follow the instruction of 2.8].
4.8] Installing the doorstoppers:
Follow the instruction of 2.10].
4.9] Installing the wooden side panels:
[red] Insert the wooden panel and fix it with 4 screw in place.
[red] Install the wood panel with the four brackets.
Now your enclosure should be finished!
I hope you have fun with the building process!
If there are any questions left or something is missing, feel free to ask me!
MODS:
Longer Legs:
https://www.printables.com/model/831699-longer-legs-for-rettex31s-lack-enclosure
License:
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial
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Rettex31
