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Moai Tissue Dispenser (split + invisible seam + fuzzy skin ready) 3D Printer File Image 1
Moai Tissue Dispenser (split + invisible seam + fuzzy skin ready) 3D Printer File Image 2
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Moai Tissue Dispenser (split + invisible seam + fuzzy skin ready) 3D Printer File Image 4
Moai Tissue Dispenser (split + invisible seam + fuzzy skin ready) 3D Printer File Image 5
Moai Tissue Dispenser (split + invisible seam + fuzzy skin ready) 3D Printer File Image 6
Moai Tissue Dispenser (split + invisible seam + fuzzy skin ready) 3D Printer File Image 7
Moai Tissue Dispenser (split + invisible seam + fuzzy skin ready) 3D Printer File Thumbnail 1
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Moai Tissue Dispenser (split + invisible seam + fuzzy skin ready) 3D Printer File Thumbnail 7

Moai Tissue Dispenser (split + invisible seam + fuzzy skin ready)

suit avatarsuit

February 13, 2024

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Description

Since i got my first Moai Tissue Dispenser, people that come over want one aswell :)

The original split model by Crooked_Noozle on Thingiverse is a bit of a pain to print and also has dowel-connectors, that require post processing to make them fit properly. So i wanted a faster solution without sanding or painting.

So i used the original High-Res-Version and used it as a basis for a rework, that makes the connector piece “seamless” even if you have a smaller print volume and also used fuzzy skin to give it a nice stone effect. I've included a modifier volume for the connector if you want to use fuzzy skin.


Prusament Marble Grey with Fuzzy Skin

 

 

BOM

  • some good plastic adhesive (UHU Hart works well for me)

Printing

  • Both pieces upright
  • the upper piece should be printed on a smooth print bed (it is not critical, but makes assembly easier), the lower piece is up to you
  • use organic supports for the nose and top of the head, if you increase the interface spacing to about 1 mm they will be very easy to remove
  • you need supports under the nose and the top of the head - rest is support free if your printer is well tuned, for good measure, the chin can be supported aswell, since it is facing the front and looks nicer that way
  • 3 wall loops and 5 to 10 % gyroid infill is sufficient
  • top surface pattern should be set to hilbert curves to introduce more “noise” so it looks like a stone texture
  • fuzzy skin if you like
    • there is an body called “Connector Blocker" in the 3mf file that needs to be used as modifier
    • contour only, point distance 0.3 and thickness 0.4 looks nice imho
    • you can try printing a few test blocks to find your preferred pattern
  • Print Profile as 3mf (Orca Slicer, Bambu Studio or Prusa Slicer) is provied

 

Assembly

  • Both pieces have a tolerance of about 0.1 to 0.2 mm built in, they should fit together nicely
  • make sure to remove every loose strand from the upper connector 
  • the connector has an undercut of 1 layer (0.2 mm) so it should be only a virtually non existant gap between the parts
  • test fit the pieces and when it it looks nice, apply some glue to the upper connector and insert the bottom piece into it
  • strap the 2 parts together with some elastic bands or rachet straps (be gentle, so you don't crack the part) and let the glue solidify 

 

License:

Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike

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