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PowerShark Case 3D Printer File Image 1
PowerShark Case 3D Printer File Image 2
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PowerShark Case

Shred avatarShred

June 16, 2025

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Description

PowerShark is an USB-C power supply for the Amiga 500, 600, and 1200.

Unfortunately it is delivered in a “dust grey” case that does not really match to most Amigas.

With this replica case, you can now print your own case in any color.

There are three designs for you to choose from: A simple design, one with the famous Commodore "Chicken Lips", and one with space for a square Amiga 500 style badge.

You can also choose between a fully closed case (like the original one) or a case with air vents. If you decide to use the design with the vents, be careful that no metallic parts get into the housing, as they could cause short circuits. If in doubt, use the closed design! The original case has no vents, so they don't seem to be necessary.

This case has been tested with PowerShark Batch 1 only. It is not known whether it also fits Batch 2 without pinching components or causing thermal problems.

Printing

Since surface temperatures of components inside the case may reach 70°C or more, it is recommended to use a material that can resist these temperatures without deforming, for example PETG or ABS.

I printed both parts separately with a layer height of 0.2 mm and using a 0.4 mm nozzle. I recommend not to use brims or supports.

The case sits very tight! To get an optimal result, use a well-calibrated printer, good filament, and a good nozzle.

Disclaimer

You are doing this modification at your own risk!

To move your PowerShark into this case, it is necessary to open the original case and remove the board. You can damage your PowerShark if you apply too much force at any step.

Opening your PowerShark will void your warranty!

To avoid damage to the components, please take appropriate ESD precautions and wear an ESD wrist band!

Assembly

Remove the screw from the bottom of the original case. Keep it, as it will be reused in the new case.

Carefully separate the case shells and remove the board and the power switch inside. The original case sits very tight, but do not use force to remove the board, as it might break!

Now insert the board into the new case. The fit is also very tight, so be careful. When closing the printed case, make sure the LED and the power switch are sitting correctly (and the switch is in the right direction). Also make sure that the switch cable is not pinched.

Again, do not use force! If the printed case is too tight, use a cutter knife to widen the case a bit, calibrate your printer, or use better filament.

Use the screw of the original case to close the printed case.

License

The model is published under a CC BY-NC-SA license. It means that commercial use is prohibited, but you are allowed to print the parts for someone else if you charge only for the filament and the shipping at cost price.

Changelog

Version 3:

  • Optional air vents on the bottom case shell

Version 2:

  • A few minor corrections based on feedback
  • Now optional: air vents
  • Pointed out that PETG or ABS should be used

Version 1:

  • Case with optional Commodore logo or badge space

License:

Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike

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