Focusrite Scarlett Solo 4th Gen - under desk mount

CHOOSE WHAT YOU LIKE:

• A single complete piece / two parts
• Choose if you want your Scarlett to be removable or not - also a few options on how removable
• Additional cable holders with various sizes
• Honeycomb may save print material

I personally went with v10 OPEN honeycomb cables and v10 CLOSED honeycomb cables.
Thanks to the rubber feet the device holds firmly enough even without locks.

Names:

• FRONT
  • Two small non movable overhangs hold your Scarlett in place while revealing most of the red outline 
  • MAYBE removable (UNTESTED)
• OPEN
  • No lip holding your Scarlett back
  • May be used anywhere (read mid or front)
  • Relies  only on friction fit and tightening of the screws 
  • Removable
• CLOSED
  • Complete rim around the entire red line 
  • Not removable 
  • Ideal for the rear side, but can be also used as a front
  • Not removable
• REVERSED CLOSED
  • Complete rim around the entire red line
  • The rim is on the opposite side compared to CLOSED - its not just mirrored
  • Creates more space between the screw and the bottom end, if you want your Scarlett to be flush to the edge of the table but do not want the screw bits to ruin the look, this is it.
  • Not removable
• FULL
  • A complete single piece mount for the Scarlett
  • Two front prongs should have enough give to make it removable but hold it in place firmly enough for cable pulling (UNTESTED)

Variable options:

• honeycomb
  • large surface contains honeycomb holes in order to reveal the nice red color and save on material
• allroundhoneycomb
  • Honeycomb holes go all the way around to the sides as well
• cables
  • Cable attachment hooks present on the side

Versions:

• v7 does not have chamfered screw platforms
• v8 and v9 have no real difference
• v10 has improved cable holders and indents for the Scarlet's rubber feet

TIPS:

If you choose to go with two halves, attach the rear one to the table and then attach the front one (depending if removable or non removable you may need to do so with the interface)

There is some space between the rear and front halves by design, they are not fully connected.

Use flat head screws so that you do not split the print on layer lines (sunken head screws do that)

DIMENSIONS:

These models were made with dimensions picked from the manual (plus some printer tolerances) - EDIT: It fits well enough but i didn't realize there would be rubber feet stuck to the bottom. For v10 i decided to add indents for them but they are not glued too precisely

DESIGN:

i aimed to keep as much of the cool red outline in the front as possible but that may not be what you need so i also added versions with full cover or partial cover. 

Tried to make the entire mount low-profile with hopefully little material needed to print it.