March 7, 2024
Description
This is a remix of the "P3steel 2.x - RAMPS offset mount" by Toolson for a RAMPS/MEGA board, but specifically for a 2.5 DXL laser cut frame which seems to have it's electronics mounting holes in a slightly different configuration than the 2.0 and 2.01 frame. Similar to Toolson's version, this is to allow some offset to add in an LCD/SD adaptor into the RAMPS board and gives you better access to the electronics.
If you use make a P3Steel with a 2.5 DXL frame you may not notice that both frame uprights have different hole configurations, and these configurations also appear to be different to that of the 2.0/2.01 frames. If you follow the traditional layout, the RAMPS is mounted on the "left" as you look at the front of the printer, on the outside. You need to find the upright frame panel with matching holes to your Arduino Mega 2560 board - that is your "left upright". If you use the other upright frame panel as the "left" and try to match up the Arduino to the mounting holes, it won't match up.
So assuming you have the above configuration, if you use Toolson's mount you may find that the frame mounting holes just won't line up. Toolson's "Toolson Edition" Prusa uses a 2.01 frame. Use these files to create the correct mount.
I have included both a full size version and also (a la Toolson!) a diet version which saves on filament and print time. The diet version may also help with corner curling issues too as they are two smaller pieces rather than one large piece.
Please share your makes if you make one!
Time lapse of both prints: https://youtu.be/99uBQ1ShJvY
New STL uploadedp3steel2.5-_ramps_10mm_offset_mount_super_diet which is now only a 10mm instead of 15mm offset as I think the 2.5 DXL frame has more room towards the frame. This file also has even more trimmed off it to the bare minimum needed to mount the Arduino to the frame. (not printed yet!)
p3steel2.5-_ramps_10mm_offset_mount_super_diet printed and installed now, see the last few pictures in the gallery. This part is a filament reduction but also moved the mount in 5mm so there is only a 10mm offset - and this brings in the mount to not stick out the side any more. The LCD adaptor is still accessible and works fine.
10mm offset version time lapse now available: https://youtu.be/GpnC3QBlHE4
Printer:
Printrbot Simple Makers 1405
Rafts:
Doesn't Matter
Supports:
No
Resolution:
0.2064mm
Infill:
15%
Notes:
3dPrima PLA 1.75mm Black -http://amzn.to/2apMYtu
Perimeters: 2 at 0.4mm (0.8mm total)
Infill: 35%
Raft: Yes, if you like
Support: None, built in
Brim: Yes, if you like
STL Scale: 100%
The STL files all have the Arduino mounting holes covered by a small layer which should print. You will need to drill this out as you clean up the holes with a 3mm drill (if you are using M3 bolts and nuts). (Below image is actually the original Toolson part, but you get the idea!).
The Arduino mounting holes are smaller than the frame holes. If you are using the 2.5 DXL frame the Ardunio is mounted to the frame with M3 bolts and a hex nut. I used a nyloc nut to secure it in place and also an M3 washer to help not nip the frame. The Ardunio mounts can either be selt tapped with an M2.5 bolt, or as per above drilled out with a 3mm drill and use an M3 hex bolt and M3 nut underneath. An M3 bolt 8mm-10mm should be sufficient to mount the Arduino to the offset mount - any more and it will poke past the nut, scratch the metal frame and you won't get a flat mount.
This is a remix of Toolson's part, but it was more of an exercise in learning Tinkercad. Using the original part measurements, specification of the frame, M3 bolts/nuts and the Ardunio mounts I fully replicated the part within Tinkercad. After a couple of designs and prints I finalised it to what is is now. It's surprising how simple yet comprehensive Tinkercad is, and it's ideal if you just need to "knock up a bracket" in a matter of minutes!
10mm offset version time lapse now available:
Category: 3D Printer PartsLicense:
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial
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ChunkySteveo
