DP20V2A Power Supply case for the Stanley 014725R Organizer

Since these models are designed to work with electrical components, if you use these models, it is at your own risk.  These models will not meet code requirements, so use your best judgement if they should be used in your application or not.  If unsure, consult an expert or professional (not me).  In general, I suggest using a flame retardant filament for any prints that will hold electronic components.  

I've been trying to fit out my Stanley 014725R organizer for electronics projects and decided to add another adjustable power supply. The size of this supply will be the same as a large bin for the organizer. I got some inspiration from seeing this thing (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1816188), and I used gpambrozio's customizer friendly thing here (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:652558) as the starting point for the case.

There is a big compromise on the power supply in order to fit it in the Stanley case however. Due to the low height requirement, I had to use the DP20V2A supply which has a max input voltage of 23V (not great). I'd prefer to have a power supply that could do upto 24V but most things I work with will only go to 12V anyway. I also have a 19V/1.8A wall wart that works perfectly with this. The knob also has to be replaced with the shorter version posted with this thing. The banana plug spacing should work with a dual jack but I don't have any dual plugs to verify that with (spacing is 0.75" center to center).

The parts I used for this are:

DP20V2A CV/CC Programmable Control Step-down Power Supply

XL6009E1 DC-DC Adjustable Step-up Power Converter Module (this is used to supply the DP20V2A and I set the converter for ~20V since max input on the DP20V2A is 23V).

DC 24V Brushless Cooling Fan 25mm 25x25x10mm - this will need to run at a lower voltage since max input is 23V (spec) but in actual use I run it at 20V (and it is pretty quiet at 20V too). I installed the fan to blow out of the case.

2x 4MM Banana Jack Panel Mount Connector (https://www.ebay.com/itm/2Pcs-Terminal-Binding-Post-Socket-for-4MM-Banana-Jack-Panel-Mount-Connector-MET/272813873555)

1x DC 2.1x5mm panel connectors (cheaper on Ebay):
Amazon Item "B078YP4CP6" (please copy and paste the item in the search field at Amazon, you can read why below)

A fuse is a good idea as well. I did not install one on mine, but now that I have a small collection of inline minifuses, that is planned.

Hardware Required
2x M3 x 6 mm screws
4x M3x25mm (or longer up to 28mm) screws - cap screws look best but are not required
6x M3 x 4mm x 4.3mm brass inserts
Glue will also be needed for the inserts, unless they are heat set in place.

The DP20V2A I have is a tight fit, and I was going to add some extra space around the bezel, but it really fits perfectly so unless folks have a problem getting it installed I will leave it as is. That said if you have a problem, first try cleaning the elephant foot from the opening, and if that fails let me know in the comments or PM. Another thing to note is that there have been a few minor changes to the model since I printed the one in the pic, however I don't think anything changed will cause a problem.

The STP file is included for remixing.

Just wanted to mention some info that may help in getting the M3 inserts installed. They should be melted in, but I don't have experience with that so have been installing the inserts using clear Gorilla Glue. My method is to screw the insert onto a 20mm or so M3 screw, just so it is a few mm threaded. Then I apply a thin layer of glue all the way around the insert. The screw is used to guide the insert into the hole, and then I can usually press it in by hand, but sometimes it requires a few taps to seat it. If it does not seem to go all the way in, then I would remove the screw used to seat it, and then install a screw from the other side and tighten that one down, to pull the insert to it's final position. Once that is done, I would remove the screw and allow it to dry. This method has worked well for me, and I have installed at least 50 inserts this way so far, without using the heat setting method.

You can find links to my other stuff that fits into a Stanley 014725R Organizer at the links below:

Portable TS-80 Soldering Iron Battery Case (fits into the Stanley 014725R organizer)
https://www.printables.com/model/79687-portable-ts-80-soldering-iron-battery-case-fits-in 

Portable Solder Fume Extractor for a Stanley 014725R Organizer https://www.printables.com/model/79687-portable-ts-80-soldering-iron-battery-case-fits-in

DSO112A Module for the Modular Breadboard Kit V2
https://www.printables.com/model/79679-dso112a-module-for-the-modular-breadboard-kit-v2 

Component Tester Module for the Breadboard Kit V2
https://www.instructables.com/id/Component-Tester-Module-for-the-Breadboard-Kit-V2/

Modular Breadboard Kit V2 - small modules only (with STEP files)
https://www.printables.com/model/79683-modular-breadboard-kit-v2-small-modules-only-with- 

Modular Breadboard Kit V2 - small box module with lid (with STEP file)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3714623

Modular Breadboard Kit V2 - small double box module with lid (with STEP file)
https://www.printables.com/model/79670-modular-breadboard-kit-v2-small-double-box-module- 

I also have some parts trays for the same case which you can find in my designs here.

Thanks for looking, and if you like this thing, please like it or download it (which helps to get me closer to my first free spool of Prusament).  Or you can check out my site, to see what other projects are in the works.

Parts are not oriented for printing, please adjust/rotate them to use minimal supports. I printed using 0.2mm resolution except on the knob which I used 0.1mm resolution.

Category: Electronics