Universal Ikea Lack Enclosure [High Stability from Scratch]

Update 29.04.2024

Added new parts which allow you to increase the height of the enclosure using the exsiting “connector_bottom” parts (excluded the acrylic panels which will need to fit the new height!):

• +30mm  height (→ inner height = 480mm)
• +50mm  height (→ inner height = 500mm)
• +60mm height (→  inner height = 510mm)
• +75mm   height (→ inner height = 525mm)
• +100mm height (→ inner height = 550mm)

These new parts are going to work with all existing parts and will be connected directly onto the “connector_bottom” parts which you still will need.

See new pictures for assembly order.

Of course you will need different heights of acrylic panels with those extension parts!

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After trying two different and very popular Ikea Lack Enclosures i still wasnt satisfied with the result. Mainly because of the overall lack of stability and inaccuracies during assembly due to the design.

Although i really would have liked to use one of the existing ones, i decided to try my “own” version of this great idea.

I started from scratch and tried to include and exclude all possible pros and cons of other designs.

Main goal was to make this as stable as possible while not using too much filament.

Assembly instructions in the picture section.

Enclosure 1.1 (recommended):

• panels can be added or be removed seperatly after assembly
• slightly more parts needed to be print
• provides better tightening of the acrylic panels
• provides even more stabilty due to the mounting of the side panels

Enclosure 1.0 ("classic" assembly):

• uses less parts
• panels can't be removed seperatly

Technical Data and advantages of 1.0 and 1.1:

• very stable but still does not use too much filament
• all screw points are optimized due to material thickness of the ikea lack table.
• uses existing mounting holes of the ikea lack table and makes this a easy to mount project
• easy to achieve perpendicularity
• magnets included in the handles and no glue required
• more accurate positioning of one table onto the other
• inner height: 450mm

Purchase Parts:

• Acryl or plexiglass panels
  • 220x440x3 (2x)
  • 440x440x3 (3x)
• dowels D=6mm (x8)
• wood screw countersunk head
  • D=4,5 - 5 x at least 30mm i've used 50mm
  • D=4,5 - 5 x about 15-20mm
• neodym magnets 20x6x1,5mm

Print Settings i've used:

• all parts printed with normal PLA
• 0,2mm layer height
• 15% of infill works fine, still with a second time printing this i would go for 30% to be sure
• non of the parts require supports
• see slicer picture for print orientations

For the filament passthrough i got inspired by:

https://www.printables.com/de/model/34334-ikea-lack-enclosure-filament-slot

This also works fine, but i wanted it to be more ridgid and a wider opening.

Assembly guide is the same - i recommend first to drill the two holes and then make the cutout with a simple knife. This worked well for me.

Note:

Make sure, your printer is capable of handling the additional heat from the enclosure.

In case of the Prusa MK4 you will need to place the PSU outside the Enclosure when you plan printing with closed doors.

However, i wanted an enclosure to protect my printer from dust and dirt. So i didn't detach my PSU and am just printing normal PLA/PTEG/TPU with the doors open which works fine both for the printer PSU and the printed material.