April 14, 2024
Description
Hi
I remixed the model from emreerokyar on Thingiverse to make it compatible with any type of 3D Printer feet or even any appliance. Basically you can print them and use them straight away. The purpose of them is mainly to reduce noise transmitted to the desk, they might also make the print quality better, however I cannot scientifically test this.
To prevent the feet from slipping off I added squared rods anchors, those can be easily glued on the top in a distance equal to the printer's foot dimensions. See the photos for more details.
Size is adjustable, just scale it uniformly, however I suggest not going for less than 5cm width. Wider makes it more springy and flexible, smaller sizes take less footprint but they are quite a bit stiffer. I found the sweet spot to be around 75mm width. I also tested it by pushing the middle of it on a scale, withstood 10kg of force without catastrophically failing.
You can print all 4 in one go or individually. Printed mine in PLA+, but they'll probably last longer if printed in PETG or any material with more flex and less creep.
If you need a custom model with fixed square rods anchors in a certain foot dimensions, you can DM me and I will make a model and send it to you, no charge ofc.
- Printer: Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro
- Slicer: Orca
- Filament: AnkerMake PLA+ at 210°C, 0.97 flow and 0.04 PA
- Fan speed: Min 30% Max 40% Overhang 60%
- Nozzle: 0.4mm brass
- Retraction: 1.2mm@50mm/s, threshold 0.2mm
- Wipe: 1.2mm@100%
- Z-Hop: [email protected]
- Layer height: 0.2mm
- Layer width: 0.4mm with Arachne, first layer 0.28mm
- Seam: Back with 20% gap, no scarf
- Wall: 3, Inner/Outer
- Solid infill: Monotonic, same for top/bottom with 2 shells
- Sparse Infill: Gyroid@20%
- Minimum sparse infill: 10mm²
- Speed: 50mm/s for first layer, 150mm/s for outer wall and small walls. 200mm/s for the rest
- Acceleration: 500mm/s² for first layer, 1500mm/s² for outer walls, bridges and top surface. 2000mm/s² for the rest
- Support: Nothing
- Raft/Brim/Skirt: No, but if you had problems I would greatly suggest using mouse ears and setting up KAMP. Also dial in your Z-Offset
Do I need to re-calibrate anything in the printer?
Yes, you probably need to re-calibrate input shaping. You only need to re-calibrate input shaping after:
PS I made a mistake and did not realize that the seam is in the middle of the arc, the part was substantially weaker and it broke on the seam. So just pay attention to the seam location.
License:
Creative Commons — Attribution
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