WorkCapture: Versatile Mount for Filming and Photography

This model is for those who wish to document their projects with photos or videos. It's helpful to review a video, especially when dismantling a more complex assembly, and you need to redo the steps for reassembly. I hope you find it useful and share how you've used it.

The project is compatible with Plasticlamp parts, so you can combine them if needed.

I will describe the model with adjustable clamping height since the other one is much simpler.

Choose the size of the bar you will use. If you want to obtain a rigid and very lightweight model, use carbon fiber tubes or bars. For a lower comparable price, use fiberglass bars. You'll need to be careful when cutting fiberglass bars to avoid getting splinters from the cut fibers.

Print the corresponding 3D models. I use PETG filament manufactured by Polymaker and print on a Prusa MK3S+ with a 0.4mm nozzle and standard PETG parameters, but I set 4 perimeters, 20% rectilinear infill, and automatic painted organic supports.

Here's a snapshot to assist you in visualizing the components required for one adjustable clamp with a phone attachment. I'll also provide standard attachments for cameras and camcorders.

Remove the supports from the lower jaw. 

Bore out the two channels for the bars you'll be using with a reamer of the appropriate size. In the picture, I used 5/16-inch fiberglass bars, but it works just as well for 8mm bars. Test the rod to ensure smooth sliding.

Take three M3 nuts and align them with the holes on the back of the jaw using a pair of tweezers as shown in the picture. Press the three nuts flush into the bottom of the hole. The thread is now accessible from the side.

Mount the plastic knobs onto M3 screws, 25mm in length, using hex nuts. I prefer stainless steel hardware, specifically button head cap screws.

Press the M6 hexagonal screw into the lower jaw as shown in the picture. Place the three screws previously prepared into the clamp behind the lower jaw. (Note: As we're in such a confusing system, I also made a piece that accepts a 1/4-20 screw. The 3D models will be marked '0.25-20in' to distinguish them from the M6 ones.)

Now let's assemble the upper jaw. First, place 4 M3 nuts on the front face. Use a long screw to pull the nuts into the holes, carefully aligning the sides of the nut with the hole faces.

Bore out the 8mm channels for the bars as in the previous case.

Attach a 25mm diameter rubber disk for better grip on the mounting surface of the jaw. I used this neoprene strip and cut it with these hole punches.

On the underside, insert three M3 nuts as with the lower jaw.

Since the bars do not extend beyond the upper jaw, we will use three long M3 screws, 20mm in length.

Cut two fiberglass bars to equal lengths, depending on the maximum size you want to cover with this bracket.

Insert the bars all the way into the holes in the upper jaw and tighten the three screws

Attach the plate to the back of the upper jaw using only the bottom screws, but do not tighten them yet.

It's not necessary to use the push plate, but it helps prevent the bracket from rotating on smoother surfaces. Use a 25mm self-adhesive neoprene rubber disk, as on the upper jaw.

Place the push plate on the two bars as shown in the picture.

Insert the M6 or 1/4-20 hexagonal screw (depending on your choice) into the plastic knob.

Screw it into the lower jaw as shown in the picture, and hand-thread the plastic screw cap at the end, being careful not to tighten it too much to avoid splitting.

Slide the assembled lower jaw onto the two rods as shown.

Gently press the push plate onto the plastic end of the screw, and the two pieces will connect with a small confirming snap.

Now you can adjust the position of the lower jaw depending on the thickness of the surface you will mount it on, and tighten the three screws.

Now, we mount the end piece onto the two fiberglass bars to conceal the cut end and avoid the inconvenience of getting pricked by the fiberglass.

For the ball joint arm, there are several available options. I will make further modifications to this assembly if I find simpler yet equally sturdy solutions. For now, I prefer to insert the fiberglass rod into the ball, which is equipped with an M3 hole and a hexagonal slot. I have designed a small fixture to help you drill through the middle of the rod. The rod should not protrude more than 1mm beyond the flat surface of the ball because it may not fit into the socket. Drill a 3mm hole and place a screw and a nut through it to secure the fiber in place.

Now install the oversized knobs on 30mm M3 screws.

Place the post with the ball into the socket, and also install the M3 screws into their respective holes.

Now I can mount the camera on the pergola's post and trigger it remotely to capture pictures of the birds visiting my feeder.

The other solution involves using a C-clamp bracket from Amazon, or you can screw it directly onto a table or a piece of wood that you secure differently if you don't need flexibility

Edited 04-10-2024: I have added "Robust socket to 8mm rod," "90 Degree Dual Ball Socket," and "Camera Platform" components. To actuate or lock the ball in the socket, you can use a few knob screws, with the others being adjusted according to preference.

Edited 04-11-2024 

I've attached a component that facilitates transfer from the ball to a 1/4" fiberglass rod or an alligator clip and a transition clip ¼" to 8mm (5/16") fiberglass rods. 

The dual ball socket can be assembled using two halves. If you need to mount it on the rod, use the half with an 8mm eyelet.

Edited 04-12-2024 Added multiple sockets