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SPUDNIK 3D Printer File Image 1
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SPUDNIK

Lmetlicka avatarLmetlicka

May 6, 2024

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Description

Feast your eyes on the SPUDNIK, the DIY rehousing of Netbridge 2.1 OEM boards provided by Anjelo, Loocam, etc.

This project takes all the benefits of the netbrige 2.1 board, long range 900mhz IP based connection, low latency, and incredibly fast boot times, and repackages it for on set use.

It adds a 2 pin lemo port, power regulation, and allows you access the TX /RX switch as well as the pairing button from the outside.

This project can be purchased pre-built at my website here

BOM:

  • 2 Pin LEMO port: ECG.0B.302.CLL
  • Power regulation: Pololu 9V, 2.9A Step-Down Voltage Regulator D30V30F9
  • 2x M2 heat set inserts: Standard, CNC Kitchen
  • 4x M3 heat set inserts: Short, CNC Kitchen
  • 2x M2 x 4mm screws
  • 4x M3 x 12 Flat head screws
  • ¼-20 heat set inserts: E-Z LOK Threaded Insert for Plastic
  • Wires: 24AWG, preferably silicon
  • ANT-916-CW-HWR-SMA
     

Tools:

  • Soldering iron
  • Hex Keys, screw drivers
  • Heat set insert tool
  • LEMO DCH.91.121.PA
  • Small, parallel wrench or similar
  • 8MM Hex nut driver
  • needle nose pliers
  • wire strippers
  • precision screwdriver set
  • Razor blade
  • liquid electrical tape (recommended)

Build Instructions:

  • Disassemble the original housing by popping off the faceplate.  keep the faceplate as we'll need parts from it later.
  • remove the board from its housing and carefully disconnect the antenna. unscrew the antenna from the enclosure and set aside.
  • Print the enclosure. CF-PETG is preferred, but standard PETG works, PLA will not last long.
  • Install heat set inserts. these must be installed straight, as there is little tolerance for the components and poor ¼-20 inserts can make them prone to break.
  • install the antenna cable.  carefully rotate the hex backing so that the flat side passes my the mounting post, then rotate so it can be keyed in to place.  use needle nose pliers to ensure a firm fitment, then add the washer and nut to the antenna and tighten down with  your 8mm hex nut driver.
  • cut your wires to approximate length and solder to the Pololu board. you will need shorter leads for the lemo (leading to the power input) than to the netbridge board.
  • solder the lemo port to the input leads on the pololu board, and mind your polarity.  ground should go to the lead marked with a semicircle near the solder cup.
  • install the nut on the back of the lemo port as well as the washer.  slot the lemo port into its hole on the housing, and tighten down.
  • take your M2 screws and secure the pololu board to the inside of the housing.
  • take the faceplate from the original housing and carefully remove the clear light channels .  they may be installed as a press fit inside the model, or they may need to be enlarged with a 0.9mmhex head or similar.
  • Remove the DC barrel jack from the netbridge board. use a soldering iron and a razor blade to assist in removing the jack.  be careful not to remove the pads.
  • solder the netbridge board to the power output leads from the pololu board.  double check the polarity that is indicated on the board, with negative closer to the ethernet port and postive further from it.
  • CONNECT THE ANTENNA LEAD AND ANTENNA before powering up the board to test.  indicator lights should blink to show you've successfully powered the board.  failure to connect the antenna to the board before powering on can fry the radio module, which won't be clear until you try to pair the device.
  • apply liquid electrical tape to connections for additional protection.  fit the board into place being mindful not to damage the button or switch while they are installed in their channels.  place the lid on top, and fasten with 4 M3 screws.

License:

Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial

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