Raspberry Pi 4 case - Retro tower desktop

A retro style beige Raspberry Pi 4 tower case. It has a working power button, LED, and IO activity LED. The SD/microSD card can be inserted like a floppy disk to swap between different operating systems. It also has 2 HDMI ports, audio jack, and USB-C power on the rear of the case.

There is space for a 40mm exhaust fan and a 40mm or 50mm front intake fan. There is also enough space for a large cooler like the ICE tower.

I also made a Raspberry PI 5 version of the case. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6572558

NOTE:

There is now a slightly improved V2 of the case.

Changes:

Added version of case that is 1.5cm taller

Increased hole size for push button

Added hex cutout to use the included nut for a push button

Moved wall ridges to prevent interference with tall connections on GPIO

V2 cases still use the original side and front panel unless there was a size change

Parts needed (links at the end):

Micro SD to SD Card extender: 1

Micro HDMI to HDMI Adapter Cable: 2

Panel-Mount USB-C Extention Cable: 1

40mm 5V fan (for exhaust): 1

Low-Profile CPU Cooler or ICE Tower Cooler: 1

SPST Momentary Mini Push Button: 1

5mm LED with resistor: 1

3mm LED with resistor: 1

#6-32 UNC thumbscrew (standard PC case screw): 2

#6-32 UNC screw or M3 screw (standard PC case screw): 6

various wire/header connectors (for connecting fans/LEDs/power button)

Optional:

Front 5V 40mm/50mm fan: 1 (note: I've not needed this even when overclocking the Raspberry Pi)

Noctua NF-A4x10 to replace CPU Cooler fan: 1

Panel-Mount 3.5mm AUX Male to Female Extension Cable: 1 (note: pre-made cables may be too long and should be shortened.)

Assembly instructions

Prepare all parts

note: any places that require screwing plastic parts together can be replaced with glue if you are way too confident/lazy.

• Print out all parts with whatever material/color you would like.
• (optional but helpful) Use a thread tap on all screw holes

Start Assembly

• Tap threads for push button. If you don't have a tap, you can use the push button to create the threads. You may need to use a file to help make sure the push button fits if you don't have a tap.
• Press fit 3mm LED into the main case. Glue can be added, but the press fit should hold it fine.
• Press fit 5mm LED into the main case. Glue can be added, but shouldn't be needed.
• Put SD card extender in the SD card tray and attach to the case with screws or glue. This may require a long screw driver that can reach through the fan grill or a very short one that will fit in the case. This is easer to do before anything else is in the way.
• (Optional) Attach front fan with screws
• Screw/Glue in front panel. Make sure LEDs are visible and the push button does not get stuck.
• Put HDMI adaptors in the HDMI holder, but don't mount it in the case.

Connect wires to the GPIO Header

• (Optional) Make a simple splitter for the CPU/Case fan(s). I have the fans connected to 3.3V (pin 1) and ground (pin 9). The fans can use a 3.3V or 5V pin for power and any unused ground.
• The push button goes across pin5/pin6 (polarity doesn't matter).
• The power LED goes to pin8(+) and pin14(-).
• The GPIO LED goes to pin37(+) and pin39(-).
• Connect all wires, connectors, and micro SD card extender to the raspberry pi before carefully placing it in the case. At this point all cables/extenders should be connected to the Raspberry pi, but not the case. (note: if using the ICE or low profile heatsinks, they should not be attached at this point)

Finish Assembly

• Use the brass spacers/mounts/standoffs from the cooler to screw the Raspberry PI to the case. These 4 brass pieces should now be going through the Raspberry Pi's mount points into the case.
• Add thermal paste or the thermal pad to the processor and attach the CPU cooler with the included screws.
• Screw in the HDMI Holder.
• Screw in the USB-C extender
• Screw in the Audio jack
• Attach the rear exhaust fan.
• Slide the side panel on and add thumb screws

config.txt setting

• (Optional over clock setting -- Use at your own risk)

overclock

arm_64bit=1

hdmi_enable_4kp60=1

over_voltage=15

arm_freq_min=100

arm_freq=2350

gpu_freq=750

gpu_mem=512

• Enable GPIO LED and IO activity LED

Additional overlays and parameters are documented /boot/overlays/README

dtoverlay=act-led,gpio=19

enable_uart=1

• Enable the power button: https://github.com/Howchoo/pi-power-button

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YHN83NJ or https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X3Y4BBB https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K21HSQX https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075R7QBQD https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NEMGCIA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V35SXMC or https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZV1LLWK https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075LDGHHS/ or any similar button https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G4WXFX1/ or https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G4XC341 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X622RJN or (preferably) make your own.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08R9KN46J (these fans work well, but are a bit loud even at 3.3V)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CQPJJXY or https://www.walmart.com/ip/3ft-3-5mm-Mini-Stereo-TRS-Male-to-Female-Panel-Mount-Extension-Cable/248859634 or make your own https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01C3RFHDC

Although this case was made from scratch, I was inspired by this case by nilly667: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4362798

Print Settings

Printer:

Qidi X Max

Rafts:

No

Supports:

Yes

Resolution:

0.12mm

Infill:

40

Filament: LEE FUNG ABS

Wood

Notes:

You may not need supports, but it can help for the long overhangs.

Category: Electronics