November 14, 2021
Description
After printing the original, I realized Shedg's design is for MK8 (6mm) nozzles and my printer uses MK10 (7mm) nozzles. I then printed the design scaled 116% in the x and y, it should have worked, but there was something wrong with the holes, nothing fit.
I designed and printed the Hole Test, it has holes on two lines 6.00, 6.25, 6.50, 6.75, 7.00, 7.25, 7.50, and 7.75 mm. I wanted to see how my 7mm nozzle would fit. The threads fit great into the 7.00mm but the collar sits up. In the 7.75mm hole, the collar fit nicely. So I imported the scaled design and resized all the holes to 7.75mm. The MK10 nozzles snap nicely into place but can be removed by hand.
I changed the taller cover to add finger tabs, it fit just a little too snugly. The walls are pretty thick because of the scaling, but I really like his design and didn't want to change the look. You will probably need to sand the cover and base a little to relieve the high points and as you can see in the picture, I added foam to the lid, just pressed in. Without it, the nozzles will fall out. The small lid rubs against the tips, that is going to cause unnecessary wear. Use the big lid and any foam you have handy.
I also redid the numbers. You can see from my photo that the numbers stand up so that I could hit them with a Sharpie, makes them much easier to read. I had to use "Print Thin Lines" in Cura to get those to print properly.
Printer:
QIDI X-One2
Rafts:
No
No
Resolution:
0.2 mm
Base 20%, Lid 50%
Filament: Sunlu PLA + Black and Green
Notes:
Cura 4.5 defaults the layer start "Z Seam Alignment" to "Sharpest Corner" in the Shell menu. In sanding the first lid, it got very thin in that spot and delaminated. By changing the setting to Random, it won't starve that one spot. You will probably need to sand a little, it's a pretty tight fit.
Also, because of the scaling of the lid, it almost had an inner and outer shell with almost no connection so I bumped the infill to 50%.License:
Creative Commons — Attribution
7
ToyMaker
