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Z8PM4 Pro MK2 pimped up printhead case 3D Printer File Image 1
Z8PM4 Pro MK2 pimped up printhead case 3D Printer File Image 2
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Z8PM4 Pro MK2 pimped up printhead case

Manuel Barner avatarManuel Barner

November 29, 2024

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Description

I bought the (in)famous Zonestar Z8PM4 multi color printer to tinker with it. Rewiews were not great, but i wanted to see how far i could bring it. Welp, the configuration that has been delivered was pretty bad. I upgraded many parts, could almost have bought a Bambulab mini with AMS for the money spent, but i learned most things that are to learn if you want to get into multi color printing. 

There are more problems with the Z8P, but one of the biggest is the constant clogging because of heat creep - the cooling is just not sufficient. 

I reworked the whole print head unit, so that it now has a better overall air flow (and no heat pockets inside the metal frame), it now fits a 60mm fan for the heat brake/print head and two (!) 5015 blower fans for nozzle cooling. 

You'll need additional parts: 

 

  • 2x 5015 blower fans (got YTF manufactured ones from Aliexpress, they work fine). mounts are standardized, so other models should fit. fitting screws should come with them. IF NOT you'll need 4 more melting inserts and m3 screws
  • 1x 60x60x fan - i bought the SUNON MF60252VX1000UA99, it has a lot of air output
  • 12x M3 melt insert nuts
  • 1x m3 screw 6mm
  • 4x m3 hex screws, length depending on your 60x60fan, 10mm should work mostly.
  • 2 electrical shrink tubes
  • soldering iron
  • a hand full of cable ties

i also strongly suggest to swap out the extruders for the dual extruders (you'll need the left sided ones) from the zone star online shop, and the bowden tubes for capricorn blue ones. the tubes are pretty long, so they have a lot of retraction “play” - the capricorns will eliminate that mostly. While you're at it: replace the tubes IN the heat break with capricorns also. 3m overall lengths are enough for the whole setup. It's also a good idea to apply new thermal paste to the upper part of your heat break insert (there are a lot of how to videos on the net).

The melt inserts are for the 60mm fan (4x), the sensor mount at the front (4x), the lid mount (1x), and the screws to hang it into the rail mount (3x), melt them there and you can use most of the original screws and mounts.

The layout for the bed sensor is copied from the original print head frame, so you can just put it where it “was”. 

screw the fans in place (like in the foto), and solder the cables to the plugs coming from the board -  replacing the original fans.

I put in a lid for the mixing hot end (M4) and the non mixing hot end (E4)! both work with the rest of the setup! you can now swap out the hot end config with the lid for ease of maintenance!

 

License:

Creative Commons — Attribution

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