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Onstep SHC case Prototype Board version 3D Printer File Image 1
Onstep SHC case Prototype Board version 3D Printer File Image 2
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Onstep SHC case Prototype Board version

artyfarty avatarartyfarty

July 28, 2024

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Description

This is a a huge SHC (Smart Hand Controller) case that you can build with just a 3D printer and soldering iron, no custom boards needed. Two versions: Internal LiPo + usb-c charger or external NP-F. I've included a hump to house Dupont cables because I didn't bother to solder anything to ESP32. 

Case is designed for:

  • ESP32-WROOM board
  • 12x12x7.3mm buttons
  • 5x7 cm prototype board
  • 1.3" I2C OLED
  • M2, M2.5 & M3 bolts in tapped plastic
  • Sliding On/Off Switch 90° (IC-206)
  • 3.7V 1000mah lipo battery
  • TP4056 Type-C charger

Alternatively you can use NP-F battery version of this design. It's designed for 2mm banana plug pins. You'll obviously need a step-down circuit to use it! I used NP-F geometry from this make. New plate is also designed for M3 threaded inserts. NP-F version replaces LiPo and USB charger with:

  • Any 5V voltage regulator
  • Any NP-F battery
  • ~2mm banana plugs

Currently case is bolted together in an ugly way, I'll redesign it from scratch someday.

I've included fusion 360 project, feel free to modify to your needs and share with the community. The feature flow is below my standarts though, there are a lot of unconstrained objects there, sorry for that.

Assembly

Solder your switches at the exact location as on the photos. They are symmetrical, but mind the rotation. You can also refer to the hand-drawn layout below, the case is designed for this exact hole positions. You can wire it however you want.

Power it from USB, test it out, then attach the battery and the charger and check if it actually powers on from VIN - some boards have troubles with it.

My build also requires you to flip the screen in SHC code. You can find it in official repo or use my fork that has that setting.

Banana pins for NP-F version look somewhat like this:

 

Older parts of this design implies that you tap M3, M2.5 and M2 threads manually. There literally is no space for threaded inserts in this design, they won't fit even if you drill. I'll have to redo it from scratch, I'll do it eventually. For now, be patient while tapping. Luckily, if you manage to ruin less than 50% of threads, it will work.

License:

Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike

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