Protean Battery Storage Grip and Dual Stage Trigger

Battery Grip! Dual-Stage Trigger! Anti-Stock!

These pieces were adapted from:

https://www.printables.com/model/553351-gryphon-battery-grip Original gryphon battery grip, by Skwiggums

https://www.printables.com/model/861392-flywheel-nerf-blaster-mk41-royobion-protean-remix Shortened protean frame, by Meaker

Parts List

These parts replace only the grip and trigger of your protean. The pusher, top cover, and all other parts are unchanged. All necessary hardware is in Bold. To build, you will need one of each of the following:

1. Grip frame. 
   • Has two size options, and can accommodate either a dual-stage trigger or a rev trigger. All four combinations use the same hardware: a 5mm-M3 brass insert put on the bottom of the handle, a trigger spring, and a 10a microswitch. This is smaller than the 21a switch used to rev the original protean, but the wiring is the same. 
   • “normal” is compatible with classic protean parts and has an elongated profile
   • “short” is built for Meaker's compressed ‘Royobion’ remix, linked above. This is the version pictured in my build. You will also need to print Meaker's shortened pusher cover, but all other parts are shared with the base protean.
2. Triggers.
   • If you are using the rev-trigger version, print the same firing and rev triggers from the base protean.
   • If you are printing the dual-stage version, print my uploaded dual-stage trigger. This version can hold a slightly longer battery.
3. Grip scale.
   • Print two of these with one mirrored. They attach to the frame and cap using short M3 screws.
   • The “XL” size is about 4mm wider. For reference, my 2S 950-Graphene battery fits snugly in the normal size, but my thicker 3S battery needs the wider size.
4. Battery cap.
   • Like the grip scales, has two matching sizes. 
   • Attaches to the grip scales with a pair of M3 screws, upon which is rotates. It is opened and closed using a M3 thumbscrew that screws into the brass insert on the frame.
5. Anti-stock.
   • A stockless end cap to slot into your protean's frame in place of a classic battery-storing stock.
   • Composed of two parts, top and bottom, that screw together with long M3 screws.
   • Bottom piece has two versions, with a flat featureless surface or a rear sling point.

See photos for how I assemble and wire the switch and battery connector. I suggest wiring a longer cord for the battery connector so it can come a bit out of the bottom when fully assembled, for easy access. Also, this was all done in Tinkercad so forgive some wacky geometry.