This image is an illustration shot freehand with an Agfa Parat, without this contraption. Examples with the P17 are coming
DESCRIPTION
These parts are used to create a panoramic tripod support for the new Pentax 17 half-frame film camera. You can mount your camera to it with a regular ¼" screw, and it will snap in place when the angle is correct to compose a perfect panorama on your film strip, taking advantage of the half-frame format.
CHOOSE YOUR CONFIG
Included are many variations for you to choose the perfect one. The configurations are selected by printing the correct FDM_TOP_XXX file for your needs. Let's break down the file names :
The filenames follow this structure FDM_TOP_<BUBBLE LEVEL>_<FRAMING>_<MOUNTING>
Bubble level :
LEVEL : Has room for a built-in bubble level. You need to pause the print and insert it (upside down in the printing orientation !). Use a round, 12mm diameter, 7mm height bubble level, these are easy to find on websites like Amazon or Aliexpress.
NOLEVEL : No built-in level pocket
Framing :
FULL : The snap angle is setup so that the camera should capture the entire scene across the frames with no overlap, eg you will capture 100% of the scene, but images won't align perfectly on the film strip due to the 2mm gap between them although the images would line up if there was no gap.
ALIGNED : This is probably the preferred option. The snap angle is setup to align the frames on the film strip, and discard some of the scene that ends up “behind” the space between frames. This is the best option imo if you plan to scan as a strip like the image up top, as they will line up nicely.
Mounting :
NUTS : These models use embedded M3 nuts to secure the retainer to the top part. This is the easiest option if you do not have access to heat-set inserts.
INSERTS : These models use M3 heat-set inserts instead of nuts. They look cooler from the top if you can use inserts. The pocket diameter is 4mm and the depth is 10.5mm. It should accomodate “long” M3 inserts just fine but short ones are also fine.
BOM
1x 1/4"-20 UNC round head hex screw with 3/8" length.
1x 1/4" washer, 1.2mm thickness max. Most M6 washers should also work.
1x 1/4" nut
1x 5/32" hex key (standard for 1/4" screws). Do not use a 4mm driver as it won't fit, you need the actual thing. Man, freedom units are weird…)
1x 2.5mm hex key for the M3 bolts
4x M3 nuts OR heat-set inserts, depending on your choice.
4x M3x8 bolts, preferrably round head so it does not stick out too much and interfere with the tripod plate
1x your preferred “FDM_TOP_XXX” part
1x “FDM_BOTTOM” part
1x “Retainer” part
ASSEMBLING IT
Insert your M3 nuts or M3 heat-set inserts in your top part, depending on your choice.
Insert the washer and the 1/4" screw facing up (the face with the arrows) in the center hole.
Insert the nut into the bottom part, it should be a tight fit.
Gently bend the springy bit of the bottom part inwards and insert it into the top part. Turn it to let it snap into one of the stops.
Assemble the retainer to the top part using the 4 bolts. There should not be any particular friction preventing the bottom part from rotating relative to the top part, except for the spring force. NB, the device is designed to be easier to turn in the right direction than the wrong (use the curved arrow).
Congrats ! Your panorama thing is now assembled and ready to use !
USING IT
Use the 5/32" allen key to secure the Pentax 17 to the top plate through the bottom 1/4" nut. Orient the lens towards the arrow facing out.
Secure the support to your tripod using the 1/4" nut.
Align the platform, to achieve this, turn the camera clockwise until it snaps where the notch on the bottom part is facing the same way as the arrow that faces out on the top plate.
Set the camera to “P” mode and the lens at infinity. Do not use “Auto” mode for panoramas as it automatically sets the lens at hyperfocal, somewhere around 2m regardless of the setting selected by the user.
You are now ready to take your first shot. It will be the leftmost frame in your final panorama. Feel free to rotate the camera clockwise to checkout the rest of your frames to plan your shot.
Take as many shots as you need (maximum 8 with the “aligned” framing and 9 with the “full” framing", for a little less than 360deg), and rotate the camera clockwise between shots until it snaps in the next position before taking a new shot. Follow the curved arrow if you have doubts, the platform should also be harder to rotate in the wrong direction.
PRINTING PARAMETERS
No supports required at all thanks to sequential bridging.
I used PLA because it is super easy to print, but any material that you can print (AND BRIDGES WELL, eg no PETG) and it flexible enough should be fine.
0.3mm layer height
3 perimeters (use this, 2 perimeters just fills the spring)
Printed it with my Prusa MK3S just fine
NERD STUFF
The angles were determined by converting the lens' focal length and film format to the viewing angle using this formula :
Angle = 2 * atan(( FrameWidth + InterFrameDistance ) / ( 2 * LensFocalLength )) where InterFrameDistance is 2mm with “aligned” framing, and 0 in the “full” framing.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
To say that I am grateful for Pentax bringing back a film camera to the market in 2024 is an understatement. TKO is a legend for bringing this project to life and coming up with such a fun camera with all the limitations he has had to work around. Thanks TKO and Pentax !
Alchemist_
