December 24, 2024
Description
Before I begin, I consider this an advanced model requiring both 0.2mm and 0.4mm nozzles as well as dual colour printing using the phantom extruder hack or at the very least a colour change at a specified layer height. If you are ok with that read on and I will attempt to help you though this build.
PARTS
1. Dual Colour Barrels
Ok, for dual colour with a phantom extruder watch this first:
To adjust PrusaSlicer these are the changes you need to make:
There are screen grabs in the photo section of how the settings should look as well as the platter tab showing multiple colours for each part.
When loading the barrel file Multi-part object detected will show, choose YES
Resize to 80% and lay the object flat before doing anything else
You can then select which part uses which filament from the drop down selection.
When finished slice the file and Export G-Code.
Open the G-Code file in notepad or any text editor and comment out any lines that refer to T1, there should be four instances of this.
Save the file and upload it to your printer and you should be ready to go.
I have included screen grabs to help with the above in the photos section.
Alternatively I have included an additional Left and Right Barrels that are one piece (See parts marked with CC in their title), requiring a filament change and ironing when the print reaches the top layer of the transparent parts. You'll have to work that one out yourselves.
2. Dual Color Ammo Counter
This can be only achieved using the phantom extruder hack (see above), printed face down with a 0.2mm nozzle. Alternatively you could print in a clear filament, mask the numbers and paint, that might work.
3. 0.2mm Parts
These are the Detail LOOP and HOOK files and the Spindle, you'll need to print 2x the LOOP file but I would print a few extra as they are easy to loose and break.
4. 0.4mm Parts
Most print orientation are obvious with minimal support from the build plate if necessary. A few exceptions - Grip print upright with no support. Clip you'll need to experiment for the best orientation and support. Rail 3 I had the best quality on it's edge, horizontal with a small bed contact patch, brim and support from the bed. Check the photos for further help.
5. Electronics
You'll need 1x5mm LED for the barrel and 1x3mm LED for the Ammo Counter. These need to wired in PARALLEL (NOT SERIES) as the grip has only enough room for a small 1S battery and TP4056 battery charger. Appropriate resistor values for each LED can be calculated here https://ledcalculator.net . A small microswitch can be attached with 2x10mm M2 screws, bend the metal lever to give appropriate trigger tension. The photo shows bare electronics so you can see what's going on. use heat shrink to insulate the parts and avoid short circuits.
ASSEMBLY
Most of this you can work out yourselves but here are pointers that can be seen in the photos.
Fit the electronic to the Barrel Left (I have changed the design to make this easier but the photos show this on the Barrel Right part)
Glue Trigger Pivot Left and Right to the Grip. Once set, you can dry fit the Trigger and Pin to test it against the Barrel and Microswitch to check for clearance and adjust tension by bending the microswitch contact arm.
Attach both Finger Guards to the Grip and use a couple of LOOPs to align the Finger Guard and Grip to the Barrel Left. Then you can check that the Trigger is moving correctly and the electronics are working before placing the Spindle and closing it all up with Barrel Right.
Best of Luck!
License:
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial
jdflute
