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Belt Driven CR10S Pro REMIX (UNTESTED prototype design) 3D Printer File Image 1
Belt Driven CR10S Pro REMIX (UNTESTED prototype design) 3D Printer File Image 2
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Belt Driven CR10S Pro REMIX (UNTESTED prototype design)

MyStoopidStuff avatarMyStoopidStuff

October 8, 2025

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Description

This model is not tested, if you make or use this model, it is at your own risk. 

 

If you make this model, please provide feedback.  The STEP model is included for easy remixing, so feel free to do so.  If you find an issue with the design, please let me know, and if there is specific info on what should be changed, I will try and help to fix issues with the design.  But I cannot guarantee a fix can or will be made. I won't be able to help much with the necessary Marlin changes to make this work, since I have not been following the development of it in the past year or so. I also cannot install this on my CR10S Pro (which is stored currently), so my ability to troubleshoot is limited. This will be an at your own risk project, and it is untested.   I am posting this by request from a person who wishes to try it out and test the design.

I recommend not printing this if you cannot take the risk of it failing.

 

If that did not dissuade you from trying this design, then here is the description, which I wrote from memory and by referring back to the parts I ordered and my blog post about this model.

This is a model which is a modification of Kevinakasam's Belt Driven Ender 3/Pro/V2 UltraLow profile version (https://github.com/kevinakasam/BeltDrivenEnder3/tree/main/V3/UltraLow)

The runout sensor is based on the "Creality CR-10S Ultimate Filament Run Out censor With Z Axis Cable Guide" by 3Deddy at Thingiverse, along with my Bowden coupler.  It will be posted separately since it has a different license requirement.

I did not include Captain_Falafel's detailed CR10S Pro model , which I used to help verify the remixed parts would fit the CR10S Pro, due to the licencing being incompatible with the remix sources.  But that model was a big help with when designing this.  If you plan to remix this, that model will be helpful.  

I designed this a couple years ago and it languished untested, until I bought an X1C, which stole it's place.  Although I have test printed some parts, and I feel the model is done, it remains untested.  Since my CR10S Pro is currently stored away, I do not have current plans to test it.  I'm posting this here since there was a request to make the model available, so I've posted the STL's and the STEP models.

If you test this design, please note the following:

  1. There is no provision for z-endstops.  I was planning to just use the probe as the z-endstop.
  2. The Z max height is slightly lower, so be sure to set the soft limits in the firmware (marlin/kilpper) before testing.  I'd set them conservatively to start, maybe around 380mm and work up from there.  Based on the model, it should be able to go to around 400mm, but again it's not tested, so best to err on the side of caution when testing.  Always be ready to kill power when doing initial testing.

As for the parts required, I am going off memory here (and the “dual z 20t” kit I purchased) (and using my blog as a reference), but this is what I recall that is needed for this:

  1. 20t GT2 pulley - 8mm bore (qty 4)
  2. 16t GT2 pulley - 5mm bore (qty 2)
  3. GT2 6mm open belt (2m)
  4. 188-2GT-6 looped belt (qty 2)
  5. 20t GT2 idler pulley with 15mm OD - 5mm bore (qty 2) - note these are different than the Kevinakasam BOM, make sure to get the 15mm OD idlers or they will not fit.
  6. 608 2RS bearing (qty 4)
  7. 8x65mm rod shaft (these should work, but a 70-75mm shaft may work better) (qty 2)
  8. 5x16mm Rod (qty 2) - these are for the lower idlers
  9. 80t GT2 pulley - 8mm bore (qty 2) 
  10. 1mm spacers (8x11 1mm thick) (qty 6)
  11.  6mm spacer (M8x16 6mm thick) (qty 2) - this may be optional

Screws and stuff:

  1. M3x6mm SHCS (qty 10) for the base idlers
  2. M5x12mm SHCS (qty 4) - for mounting the upper drive mounts
  3. M5x8mm SHCS (qty 4) - for mounting the upper drive mounts
  4. M5x30mm BHCS (qty 2) - for the 188 GT2 belt tensioner
  5. M3x14mm SHCS (qty 1) - holds the filament runout sensor in place
  6. M3x16mm SHCS (qty 2) - holds the filament runout sensor together
  7. M3x25mm SHCS (qty 2) - for the Z-belt tensioners
  8. M3x10mm SHCS (qty 4) - for the Z-belt retainer clips
  9. M3 nuts (qty 9) - various locations on the Z carriages
  10. M5 nuts (qty 4) - for the idler pulley wheels on the Z carriages
  11. PC4-M10 pneumatic fitting (qty 2) - for the runout quick connect

There may be other M3 or M5 SHCS needed, but the above list should cover the essential parts.  Some of the hardware will be carried over from other parts on the printer which would be replaced by the belted Z-mod.

The image below shows how the spacers and 608 bearings stack up in the design.  I don't think the rightmost 6mm and 1mm spacers are really required though, since the 20T GT2 Pulley should keep everything in place.  I included those extra spacers because that is how I would have assembled it.

Note that although I linked to specific AliExpress seller listings, I do not recommend buying from those links.  You may get better parts at a lower price by sourcing the parts separately.

 

RELATED REMIXES - These models are also untested, but are related to this model.

  • Runnout sensor
  • Ribbon Cable Mount

Changelog:

10/8/2025:  I noticed that I forgot to add the stepper mount plate (red in the pic below).  It is the same as the one used for Kevinakasam's design (the remix source), but it should have been included here as well.

2_MotorMountTensionerArm_V3.6.stl

 

 

 

 

 

 

License:

GNU General Public License v3.0

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