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3-inch Model Rocket Nosecone for Red Max or Goblins with optional Electronics Bay 3D Printer File Image 1
3-inch Model Rocket Nosecone for Red Max or Goblins with optional Electronics Bay 3D Printer File Thumbnail 1

3-inch Model Rocket Nosecone for Red Max or Goblins with optional Electronics Bay

David Frey avatarDavid Frey

July 26, 2024

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Description

This is the latest iteration of my 3-in nosecone designed for use with the Estes Big Red Max or the Great Goblin kits.  It can also be used for other 3-inch rockets.  I designed it to print in two parts but realized that most printers do not have the capacity of the Comgrow T300, so I split it into 3 parts.

 

Note:  This model SHOULD work with both Estes and LOC tubes, however, you should do a test print to verify both shoulder coupler and the outside diameter of the nosecone (where the nosecone and the shoulder coupler meet).

STLs included:

  • Threaded Shoulder
  • Aft End (Base0
  • Forward End (Tip)
  • Full nosecone (separate from shoulder)
  • Ebay Plug - for those that just want a straight nosecone
  • Ebay Sled - A sled to attach a flight computer to.  The plug is attached

Print Instructions:

I'm not the type of person to tell you what to do, but I am happy to make sure this works best for your situation.  Here's how I printed mine:

  • PETG - Elegoo or whatever you use should be fine.  If you print in PLA/PLA+, try to stay away from darker filaments 
  • 0.4 Nozzle with 0.2 resolution
  • Support on the lip for the Forward section - this is the mating section between the tip and base
  • 35% infill with 3D Honeycomb pattern - It's kind of heavy so, do your best to balance weight and strength
  • For the sled and/or plug, I would strongly suggest 100% infill b/c of the ejection forces - losing a rocket because of part failure is no fun.
  • 5mm brim inside and out

Assembly Instructions:

Once the parts are printed, take the three (or two) parts and scratch up the inside.  Dry-fit the pieces to get an understanding of how they will fit together.  Then, using either laminating epoxy or normal epoxy thinned out, apply a very light skim coat of epoxy to the inside surface.  This will improve the durability.  Do not get epoxy on the mating surfaces or the threads of the shoulder.

Once the inner coat of epoxy has cured so that it is no longer sticky (honestly, if you are comfortable, you can go right into this step while the inner coat still cures), prepare a standard epoxy and apply it to the mating surfaces of the tip, base, and shoulder, assembling as you go.  Take as much time as you feel you need.  It's not a race.  Squeeze the assembled nosecone together, checking for gaps and drips.  Double-check the internal threads in the shoulder.  Be sure to wipe down the outside of the nosecone with Isopropyl Alcohol to clean off any drips or squeeze out.  Set it nose down to cure.

Once it's cured, Sand the outside with 60 then 120-grit sandpaper to knock down the irregularities, then prime and paint.

The base for both the base and sled have three holes.  Two for venting/electronic deployment and the center one will accommodate a ¼-in eyebolt.  Epoxy that puppy in and you are “go for launch.”

If you find this model useful, please consider clicking the like button.  Also, I would love to see your work, so add a Make as well.  Let me know if you have any questions. 

 

License:

Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial

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