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Headlamps nozzle lighting for RatRig V-Core 4 Toolhead 3D Printer File Image 1
Headlamps nozzle lighting for RatRig V-Core 4 Toolhead 3D Printer File Image 2
Headlamps nozzle lighting for RatRig V-Core 4 Toolhead 3D Printer File Thumbnail 1
Headlamps nozzle lighting for RatRig V-Core 4 Toolhead 3D Printer File Thumbnail 2

Headlamps nozzle lighting for RatRig V-Core 4 Toolhead

tg73 avatartg73

July 28, 2024

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Description

NB: The photos are posed with a benchy from a different printer, my VC4 build is not complete yet.

Printing

Follow the standard RatRig printing guidelines here, and the part preparation instructions in the build guide here.

BOM

4 x RatRig standard M3 heatset inserts (M3x4x4.6)

6 x 400mm 26 AWG FEP insulated wire with a maximum outer diameter of 0.7mm, ideally in three different colours (two lengths needed per colour).

2 x WS2812/WS2812B addressable LED cut from a self-adhesive flexible strip. The design suits 96 LED per meter density (each LED section occupies approximately 10.4mm), 10mm strip width.

About 100mm of heatshrink sleeve to cover a bundle of three 26 AWG FEP wires, approximately 4-5mm width when flat. Avoid thick-walled sleeve.

Wiring

The wiring channels are sized to accommodate 26AWG FEP-sheathed wire with an outer diameter of 0.7mm. Larger wires will almost certainly not work.

The LEDs are wired in parallel and connected to the RGB port on the EBB42 toolboard, presenting as a chain with length 1, where both LEDs respond to address zero.

  1. Cut off an LED from the strip and prepare it. The input side must be cut on the dividing line, the output side should be trimmed a bit short. Solder 400mm long wires to the input side of the LED.


     
  2. Bend the wires as shown, then feed them through the provided hole. Check that the LED will fit nicely, then remove the adhesive backing and stick it in place. Try to align the LED to the upper and outer edges (green arrows):


     
  3. Carefully feed the wires through the provided wiring duct. Try to keep the wires aligned and not twisted.


     
  4. Carefully pull the wires further through, supporting the loop to avoid creating kinks. Finally pull each wire individually to the final position.




     
  5. Repeat steps 1 - 4 for the other side. Then it should look like this:


     
  6. Pass the wires from one side through the provided loop. Keep the wires aligned and avoid twisting them.


     
  7. Repeat for the wires from the other side:


     
  8. For reference, the finished arrangement with the Beacon sensor will look like this. The following steps will explain how to get this done.


     
  9. Wrap each bundle of wires with heatshrink sleeve as shown. While the heatshrink is still warm, mould each bundle into the path shown. Reheat to remould if necessary. Keep the wires aligned and flat in the area that will pass under the Beacon sensor. Keep just clear of the area where the Beacon connector will go, as indicated by the red lines along the sides of the main cable channel. The blue and green lines indicate the extent of this keep-clear region.


     
  10. Loosely attach the Beacon sensor. Ensure that the LED wires are adjusted to avoid the larger components on the Beacon PCB, then tighten.


     
  11. It should look like this:


     
  12. Secure the wiring up to the toolboard according to your preference. I wrapped mine in braided sleeve:








     
  13. Terminate each pair of wires into a Dupont female crimp, and complete with a Dupont connector shell. Refer to the EBB42 wiring diagram for the required pinout.



Klipper/RatOS Configuration

I added this to my printer.cfg:

[neopixel nozzle_led_t0]
pin: toolboard_t0:PD3
chain_count: 1
color_order: GRB
initial_RED: 1.0
initial_GREEN: 1.0
initial_BLUE: 1.0

License:

Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike

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