4 Panel Heater Wall for Flashforge Adventurer 5m DIY Enclosure

This model replaces the left side panel of the Flashforge Adventurer 5M DIY enclosure.  It is printed in four sections, attached with M3 screws, so it can be printed on average sized machines.  The bottom sections compose a center compartment sized to fit this 110v  fan/heater combo -  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BTYFXQKS/

I chose a 110v combo to avoid both putting more load on the printer power supply, and/or having to add a seperate external DC power supply.

This fan heater combo can be controlled by either a wired in temperature controller, like the STC-1000 I used : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09ZY98N1P , or by using a pre-packaged plug-in controller like this example:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09F7M7VPT

The heater bump-out has an air return opening above the heater.  The top panel sections have recesses for gluing in 5x3mm magnets for retention like the original DIY enclosure acrylic panel.   The  heater panel can be swapped with the acrylic panel  as desired, being retained in the same, non-permanent, fashion as the original acrylic panel.

The four sections are joined using M3 screws, as is the lid on the heater housing.  The heater unit is secured with two M4 screws and nuts.  

Join the upper tow sections first, using M3 screws.  If careful, screws can cut their own threads in the joined section.  If you strip out the plastic threads, use a longer screw & nut. 

During assembly, the heater must be secured before joining the two bottom sections. with the wires extending down, place the heater into the  lower right section portion of the compartment.  Secure it with an M4 screw & nut.  Move the left lower section into place, fitting snug on the heater. Secure the heater with an M4 screw & nut.   Please note that you may need to adjust a screwhole to get a close fit of the heater sides against the compartment edges. You can use a round file or drill bit.  The heater placement needs to be square with the opening for correct assembly, without gaps. See pics regarding placement & alignment.

There is an opening on the top of the compartment permit wiring pass-through if you use a wired temperature controller like the STC-1000.   I secured the controller on my build with servo tape (heavy duty, reusable, double sided tape).   I used stranded wire with silicon insulation for wiring the heater to the STC-1000.  There is a round holder printed at the upper corner of the left compartments side that can hold the temperature probe from an STC-1000.

Finish attaching the lower two sections with M3 screws (& nuts if needed).  Finally, join upper and lower sections using M3 screws (and nuts if required).

Finally attach the compartment lid with M3 screws.  There is a notch on the lower edge for routing the power cable.

The whole assembly should easily fit into the right panel position when needed and just as easily be removed and replaced with the acrylic panel, if desired, when not needed.

I printed this in ASA on a Qidi XMax3.   I designed and built this for my own use.  Use at your own risk.

Files for the recirculating carbon air filter in the pics can be found here:

https://www.printables.com/model/963226-recirculating-carbon-filter-sized-for-adventurer-5

Fusion 360 source and .STEP files included.