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Fans N Lights (19" 3D printer cases) 3D Printer File Image 1
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Fans N Lights (19" 3D printer cases)

AWSW avatarAWSW

August 21, 2024

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Description

“Fans N Lights” for 19" rack 3D printer cases

 

Pictures:

 

 

 


 

Video:

 

Features:

  • Temperature controlled fans to keep your 3D print case at a configured temperature
  • 4x 7-segment displays for “Status”, “RPM/%” of the fans, “Temperature” and “Humidity”
  • Monitoring of the fan function for each fan
  • 30 NeoPixel LED lights to light up the 19" rack and show status of the device
  • 2 buttons to turn the LEDs manually on or off
  • Internal web server to change settings and update the code
  • The 2 front parts are available in English and German language
  • Optional: Telegram support to control the LEDs manually (planned with Prusa Connect)

 

Internal web configuration portal:

 

Parts needed:

  • 1x 19" rack (16U example)
  • 4x M4x25 screws + optional M4 nuts. See hints for mounting below
  • 12x M3 nuts
  • Some M3x10 screws + M3x8 and M3x12 screws
  • 2x 4-pin PWM fan + anti vibration pads (size depends on your rack)
  • 1x BME280 sensor
  • 1x PCB 18x24 breadboard board 18x24
  • 2x pin header with 19 pins  + some socket strips
  • 1x ESP32 NodeMCU
  • 2x Resistor 10kOhm
  • 4x 7-segment display 8 digit
  • 3x LED stick with 10 NeoPixels
  • 2x Button ⌀12mm
  • 1x Barrel Jack ⌀12mm
  • 1x Barrel Jack power supply 12V/2A
  • 1x step down module
  • Some wires in different colors
  • Some Heat shrink tubes 

 

Wiring:

Wiring this device is a bit more complex as my usual devices shown here.

With the following plans you should be able to recreate it youself. 

In the last picture, the PCB layout is shown and the external devies like fans, displays, etc.

 

Electronic layout:

 

This table shows all connections:

 

Breadboard PCB 18x24 layout (left half) and external components (right half).

Longer, possible traces are shown as colored, direct connections. The ones with 1 cell marked only should be done with wires.

 

Here is a general overview of the whole circuit of an early prototype version:

 

Code download:

  • The code can be downloaded on my GitHub repository incl. the used libraries.

 

Setup the device:

  • The setup process is similar to my WordClock projects so I will reuse these videos here and will explain the very few differences to setup the device:
    • Please follow the 2 videos below and try to follow them closely!
      • Setup Arduino on MS Windows
      • Setup Arduino on macOS
    • Load the code from the GitHub repository incl. the used libraries.
    • IMPORTANT: While adding the ESP32 board drivers make sure to select the version “2.0.17” of the “Espressif ESP32“ boards, not the ≥V3.0.0 version, which will not compile!
    • Other than mentioned in the videos please set the “NodeMCU-32S” as board in the Arduino IDE: The “D1 Mini ESP32” is no longer used in. The rest of the setup remains the same in the Arduino IDE:
  • Upload the code to your ESP32 via Arduino IDE and let it reboot. 
  • Setup the WiFi according to the instructions in the videos. You will find a temporary WiFi access point called “AWSW FANS N LIGHTS” to set the access.
  • The device will show the actual to it assigned IP-address during startup.
  • After startup when the device shows the time already it can be configured with the shown IP-address: “http://Your-IP-Address” which is also listed in the Arduino IDE Serial Monitor as shown in the videos. 
  • From now on you can configure devicewith the web interface only. 
  • Enjoy! =)

 

Some hints for mounting this device:

  • NOTE: The shown pictures are partly taken from early prototypes which may vary a bit.
  • With this new model I added some new mounting technics, which I wanted to try. I don't mean the embedded nuts that you might pull in with a longer screw before mounting the parts, like for the LED sticks are M3x12 screws the right length to be flush at the bottom, but you need a longer, at least M3x14 screw to pull the nuts in gently before:
  • I have added some new ideas for screws to mount the 3 “back” parts to the front parts which you will need to screw the M3x10 screws before into the loose back parts and then use a 2.5 long allen key to fix the back part to the front part because you screw it all the way through the back part to the front part. With that you get a quiet good idea where the screw is and you can screw it in place before the final mount. Although this felt a bit fiddly first, I got to like it later and after several prototypes of this case. ;-) In this picture some of the screws I mean by that are marked with the arrows:
  • The holder for the sensor to move it away from the warmer LEDs and electronics can be screwed in place before too. It has a hole inside to route the BME280 sensor and cable trough. With the holder part the sensor is almost in the middle of the 19" rack cabin. The upper screw of the sensor can act as additional holder for the lid part later, if you use an M3x10 screw or use an M3x8 screw if you want to close the lid with the other 2 M3x8 screws only:
  • The 2 front parts get screwed together really tight with the help of the 4 pieces of M4x25 screws. I used M4x30 in this picture, but these screws are slightly too long as you can see. There are also holes for M4 nuts, which I not needed at all. The M4 screws cut their threat into the PLA and that gave so much strength to the parts, that it was already solid enough.
  • One hint I would like to give you too for mounting the 2 front parts. Use the M4 screws with the separate parts to add the threat to the PLA holes to make you life way easier to mount them together ideally with such a bendable screw driver:
  • The 18x24 PCB with the ESP32 is held in place with the shown little clamps and can easily be removed by turning these clamps to the side:
  • One last, but important hint: Before you connect anything make really sure to have set the step down module to an 5V output voltage. Otherwise you will start over with the whole circuit when you power it all with 12V. ;-)

 

Hope to help a bit to solve this device. I am exited to see how many of you try it out. =)

 

Print instructions:

  • 0.2 speed profile
  • Textured sheet used
  • No brim needed
  • Organic supports needed for the “Back_Left” and “Back_Right” part only
  • PLA

 

Happy printing =)

 

Some hints to the setup in German language, copied from a group entry here, in case you want to rebuild something of that setup:

“Das ist meine jetzige Lösung, mit der ich an sich so erst mal richtig zufrieden bin. 

Sie erfüllt und sogar übererfüllt einige meiner Wünsche zu dem Thema, da das ganze Konstrukt und daran hab ich lange gezweifelt, nun SEHR viel leiser und wie ich finde, besser aufgebaut daher kommt. Der Sovol SV08 macht schon Spaß, weil er einfach super schnell ist, aber auch SEHR SEHR SEHR LAUT war. Nach einer Frischzellenkur mit besserem Lüfter und in Summe 2-3 Lagen Vibrations-dämpfenden Gummi Matten ist das Teil nun (vergleichsweise) leise, aber kommt immer noch nicht an die Prusa MK3.5 ran natürlich, denn die höre ich nun an sich gar nicht mehr, sodass ich nun Kameras in die Racks anbringen werde, um noch zu wissen, dass sie arbeiten… Damit kann ich gut leben! ;-) 

Vom Boden an aufgezählt steht das Ganze nun so aufgebaut da: 

- 2x 60x60x2cm „Floordirekt“ Waschmaschinen Dämpfungsmatten
- 2x Digitus 19“ Racks mit 16HE mit 2x 19“ Steckdosenleiste und 2x 19“ Kabelhalter
- 2x 50x50x1,5cm „Develory“ Waschmaschinen Dämpfungsmatten unter den Prusa MK3.5
- 2x 40x40x5cm Gehwegplatten als zusätzliche Dämpfung unter den Prusa Mk3.5
- 2x Prusa MK3.5 ;-)
- 4x Noctua NF-P12 redux-1700 PWM, Hochleistungs-Lüfter, 4-Pin, 1700 RPM (120mm, Grau)
- 2x meine 19“ Schubladen Einschübe (1 zum Zeitpunkt noch nicht installiert)
- 2x meine neue 19“ „Fans N Light“ Lüfter und LED Steuerung 
- 2x meine neuen, magnetischen 19“ Türhalter. Ich drucke meistens nur PLA…
- 8x 9x9x1,5cm „CLARE“ Waschmaschinen Dämpfungsmatten (Luftspalt für die Lüfter)
- 1x 125x70x3cm und recht schwere Vollholz Tischholzplatte aus dem Baumarkt 
- 1x Sovol SV08

Hinter den 2 Racks befindet sich noch eine APC USV und ein Netzwerk Switch.

Das ganze Setup und vor allem der Sovol SV08 ist nun so viel leiser und die nicht gedämmten 19“ Seitentüren schwingen wenn nur so wenig, dass man es nicht wirklich störend wahrnehmen kann. Das könnte man mit etwas Dämpfungsband um die Türen herum noch verbessern, aber sehe ich keinen Grund zu. 

Einen Tipp noch, da ich auch erst darauf rein gefallen bin und sie zurück gesendet habe. Kauft gute und vor allem nicht riechende Gummi Matten. Was im Keller für ein paar Wochen wohl egal wäre, will man in der Wohnung wohl kaum ertragen, dass es lange nach alten Autoreifen riecht. Die erste Lieferung hab ich erst gar nicht geöffnet und gleich wieder zurück gesendet, da es schon durch die Verpackung unerträglich war… 

Danke noch mal und wer noch Anregungen hat, bin ich immer noch offen dafür.”

License:

Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial

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