Fishing Rod

NEW V5 DESIGN - important updates see below

Although it looks very similar, this is a complete rework of the successful V3 design:

Further Improved Lever

The lever now has a much better form factor that integrates seamlessly into the whole body. This feels far more natural and allows for a better grip on the entire fishing rod, drastically improving the experience when using it.

New Wheel with More Space and Stronger Teeth

The wheel has been completely redesigned. It is not only capable of holding much more fishing line, but also features teeth that are more than twice as thick, enhancing the performance of the bail function in the event of a larger catch. Additionally, there is a second hole in one of the spokes, allowing you to knot the line there.

While testing the new design my 10kg fishing line teared apart while the fishing rod was still fine. For the recommended print settings see further down.

Interchangeable Tip with Possibility for New Add-Ons (like a “real” rod or others)

What I have wanted to do for a long time has now been accomplished: The tip of the fishing rod is now large enough to incorporate a screw-in tip. This is extremely useful since the fishing line can cut into the plastic over time, leading to damaged line and less smooth line movement. Now you can simply change the tip from time to time, if necessary.

This also provides the opportunity to attach add-ons. I can envision a printed rod, larger tips, or other options. The thread is a standard ISO-M8.

There also are two new small holes in the front to properly secure your fishing hook, preventing it from causing any damage while carrying the device in a backpack, your pockets, etc.

As an extra, the tip section is now part of the bottom body half, making the whole assembly of the fishing rod a lot easier.

Redesigned Threads on the Wheeling Pin and the Screw

The threads on the screw and wheeling pin are now thicker and easier to print. I have also more than doubled the length of the thread on the wheeling pin, making it much less likely to rip out. The screw has also been redesigned to be easier to handle with your fingers instead of a coin.

Large Hole in the Device

There is a new hole in the front. On one hand, it looks good, and on the other, it is very practical for attaching the device to a small carabiner or similar.

Improved Clipping Mechanism of Both Body Halves

I incorporated small grooves into the clipping mechanism because I noticed some wear after opening the body a few times. Now, clipping the two halves together feels much smoother and should not wear out as quickly.

Better Printability

Small errors in the previous design were fixed to provide an overall better printing experience. I highly recommend printing with the recommended print settings, as the design is optimized for a 0.4mm nozzle and 0.2mm layer height.

Overall Better Comfort

The entire body was redesigned for more comfort. Corners are less sharp, the device is slightly thicker for a better grip, and it is slightly larger than the previous version.

New Print Files

There are many post-modeling modifiers integrated into the .3mf files. I highly recommend loading these as “open project” into PrusaSlicer (should work with BambuStudio as well, and I would greatly appreciate feedback on this topic!). They contain print settings as well as the honeycomb infill modifier for the bottom half of the body and fuzzy skin settings for a more grippy experience. Otherwise, especially for the honeycomb infill on the bottom half, you would need to add the modifier (see V5 Files) yourself. In my experience, a 25% honeycomb infill is more than enough!

There are many smaller additions and changes that are not worth mentioning. I hope you enjoy the new design!

Print Settings:

0.4mm Nozzle

0.2mm Layerheight

Body Parts & Tip: 2 Perimeter

Screw & Pin: 4 Perimeter

Wheel & Lever: 3 Perimeter

Tested Materials: PETG, PCTG, PLA NX2

Optional (already included in .3mf files): 

• Add Fuzzyskin to the outer walls of both Body halves (use the fuzzyskin paint-on tool in Prusaslicer for eample), this makes it nice and grippy. I did the same for the lever.
• Add the “V5 bottom-body modifier” as a modifier to the bottom half of the body and adjust the print settings to 25-35% honeycomb infill, 0 Perimeters, 0 Top Layers and 0 Bottom layers. This makes the back of the device as seen in the pictures.

V4 DESIGN: Skipped

V3 DESIGN: improved lever-spring, honeycombed stl, etc.

• For details see Changelog on the bottom of the page!

Story behind this design:

A couple of weeks ago, I went on vacation and found myself snorkeling in the beautiful Mediterranean Sea. Little did I know already (as the hobby fisherman and snorkelist that I am): There will be fish! So, before I left home I decided to pack some fishing line wound up on an old pencil and a little hook with me. After a couple days of snorkeling, I even managed to hook a fish using some old pizza crust as bait. I had the fun of my life watching the hook dangling down from the surface, observing the fish surround the bait and then some of them actually going for it. It quickly became my favorite activity on the beach!

Back home and with just one week until my next vacation to the Mediterranean, this time camping with some friends, I reflected on my makeshift setup and thought to myself that there must be a more elegant way to do this. At least more elegant than an old rusty pencil. So I browsed the fishing contest page and found this beautiful design by ZF Designs. I instantly knew this was going to be awesome. But after a closer look at the original design, I immediately realized that I needed to change some things to suit my specific needs when snorkeling with this device.

So, I made the following “improvements”:

1. I changed the design of the wheel to include ratcheting teeth and added a spring-loaded lever. Now, the line cannot be pulled further unless the lever is triggered, just like the bail on a normal fishing reel.
2. I modified the design of the wheeling pin by adding small threads. Now, it can be screwed into the wheel when the fishing rod is in use but can also be unscrewed and screwed in the other way around into the body to prevent it from breaking off. This also minimizes the thickness of the whole device when not in use and prevents the risk of loosing the pin overall.
3. I increased the wall thickness of the entire body to enhance its stability and incorporated a clipping mechanism so that the whole assembly holds together without any glue. This also allows the device to be opened again in case you need to change the line or accidentally pull the hook completely into the device. I also added a 3D-printed safety screw that can easily be (un-)screwed with a penny of your choice.
4. I reduced the size of the hole in the front so that it is unlikely to accidentally pull your hook into the device, which would require opening the body to retrieve it. To store the device, you can now attach the hook to the small hole in the front and put some tension on the line. The “bail” will hold the tension and this way the hook won't come loose when the device is stored away.

How to use it underwater:

1. Go snorkeling and bring some bread or other bait with you.
2. Once you see fish, push the trigger and pull the hook with some line.
3. Put your bait (I definitely recommend pizza crust from the previous day) on the hook.
4. Pull more line while keeping the trigger pressed until your bait is at the desired depth. 
5. Watch the fish surround your bait and wait until one hooks.
   • If the fish just had a happy time eating your bait (yay, you just fed some fish!), repeat steps 3-5. 
6. Wheel in your catch.
7. Take a picture and post it in the “Makes & Comments” section.
8. Take care of your catch considering the rules and regulations.

Pro Tip: If you are having a hard time impressing the fish with your bait, just throw some more of that pizza crust (or other bait) to the fish. In the commotion, they will forget about the hook, and you increase your chances of one actually going for it!

Experience report:

This specific design was tested last week on said camping trip to the Mediterranean Sea and it worked flawlessly. Even my fishing-inexperienced friends were immediately able to use it and this time we even caught a couple of fish and had a feast afterwards! It was an absolute blast. Definitely recommendable! I would share some photos of the fish, but as every good fisherman does, I too of course forgot to take pictures. The device can also be used from land by pulling 2-3m of line and throwing it into the water by hand! To avoid any tangling issues I recommend to always pull out more line manually and not unwheeling line without having tension on the hook.

Disclaimer: Know the rules regarding fishing in the region where you are! Not everyone is allowed to fish everywhere. Only keep fish that you know and that are not protected by any laws. Avoid hooking fish that are too small—which is very possible using this device. Please avoid causing unnecessary harm to any animal at all cost!

Printing advice:

The design is meant to be printed with a 0.2 mm layer height. Everything else can be set to default print settings, no supports needed, good bed adhesion recommended! I also recommend using PETG or PCTG due to its better performance in heat and saltwater.

I also uploaded a .3mf file with print settings that make the “solid body” version honeycombed due to specific Slicer-Settings (see comparison in the “makes & comments” section). It prints better that way! To see these settings you will have to open this file as a “project” in Prusaslicer. I find it useful for the body parts to be see-through for two reasons:

1. If your line tangles (even though it has never happened to me), you can see where the problem is.
2. Since this design is meant to be used underwater, this way you can easily empty out all the water before storing it in your pockets, beach bag or backpack.

Assembly instructions:

1. Cleanup your print and make sure the wheel as well as the lever can move freely.
2. Attach some fishing line to the wheel. Therefore you have two options: Either use an arbor knot or thread the line through the small hole in the wheel and tie some thick knots at the end so it cannot pull through.
3. Roll up to 20 m of line onto the wheel.
4. Assemble the wheel and the trigger lever to the bottom body part. Keep in mind the right direction for the wheel: The hole for the wheeling pin should be upwards.
5. Pull the line through the front hole of the other body part.
6. Knot a hook to the front end of the line.
7. Push the two body halves together.
8. Screw in the security screw and screw in the wheeling pin
9. Hook the hook to the front of the device and put some tension on the line so it won't come loose.
10. Screw the pin the other way around into the axis of the body.
11. Have a good time at the beach!

CHANGELOG: V4

• Further improved lever
• Stronger teeth on the wheel
• Interchangeable tip with possibility of new add-ons (like a “real” rod or else)
• Redesigned screws
• Improved clipping mechanism of both body halves
• New pockets in the front to attach the hook
• Better printability
• Over all better comfort

CHANGELOG: V3

• I changed the spring design on the lever. The previous design had the issue of deforming. The new lever is fully compatible with the V2 body design, so there’s no need to print the whole device again. You can download just the lever as single file.
• I added grooves to the body parts to make it easier to open the device if needed. 
• Additionally, I included a honeycombed body STL file for those who are unable to use the .3mf PrusaSlicer file but still want the honeycomb look.

CHANGELOG: V2

• Better clearance between both body parts for an overall better fit.
• Small hole in the front to better secure the hook when stored away.
• Changed keyring hole design for better printability.

I hope you enjoy the design, have fun with it, and I am eager to hear if anyone has the same experience as I did!