MBOT3D MK2 Re-Remix - Easy Print with Changable Fan Grills and Longer Heated Inserts (Ender7 style fan duct with dual 4010 fans)

Edit: I needed to reprint this in PETG as the bottom of the PLA+ started to warp from the heat of the build plate. I strongly recommend using PETG or better.

This is a Remix of both Schnabulation's and SLcoolK's remix. I needed slightly deeper spaces for the four M3 heat inserts in the "Front Cover" and I redesigned it to print without supports. I also liked the idea of having a fan grill to hide the Noctua cooling my heat sink so I made an optional grill that can be swapped out with minimal difficulty. I also drafted the fan ducts so that they can print the underside without supports or collapsed layers, though you'll still need supports when printing them, I also reinforced the right fan duct as I had read in some comments that it was prone to breaking off.

Ironically you might have an easier time printing some of parts these after you've improved your cooling system but to minimize this difficulty I recommend orienting the more sever overhangs so that they are facing toward the stock fan.

You Should not need supports for the "Front Cover" or the "Back Plate" which I have modified to accept a hex nut, though you will need to drill out the sacrificial skins I left in over the nut space. If you don't want to use a hex nut, use should be able to swap out the "Back Plate" for either of its predecessors.

The "Keywork Grill MkII" will definitely need supports, I recommend tree supports with a 0.24mm z-gap. I have designed all of these parts to print best with 0.14mm layers and 3x0.5mm walls (this can be done easily with a standard 0.4mm nozzle). You may also notice the pattern carved into the outer ledge of the "Keywork Grill MkII," this is intentionally designed in to help print this overhang more cleanly. A brim may also help with bed-adhesion.

I've added a few more grill designs: We've got the DOOM Slayer grill for those who will rip and tear until it is finished. Next, the Dragon Army Grill for those who know that the enemy's gate is down. And finally, for those who feel nostalgic for the stock hot end we have the Ender3v2 Grill (you will need to turn on thin walls to get the smoke trails to print).

I decided to bolt my new blower fans in with M2x20mm bolts and nuts, I have made appropriate clearances in the front cover for the nut to fit on the inside of the shroud. (You may be able to get away with shorter bolts but these were the only ones I had that would fit)

I have included a thumb screw model to make it easier to open and close the cover without a wrench. You will need an M3 heat insert but I cannot stress enough the caution that should be used when attempting to insert this into the bottom. The plastic will get very hot and if it doesn't go in straight it will effect the final product. After getting the heat insert in you may need to clear some plastic from the other side but then you can screw an M3x16 in one and an M3x20 in the other.

When it come to the CR-Touch, I needed to file away a great deal of unnecessary plastic off of the back of the case at the top as well as filing away some of the bracket itself, I also elongated the mounting holes in the case to move it a bit further away from the fan. I secured the bracket by putting a longer screw in the top hole and tightening a nut down on the back to ensure that it won't come loose easily. I also put a short screw in from the back to help locate the bottom hole as the new fans will not allow for the bottom screw to be put in from the front.

I have included a .STEP file of a "blank" fan grill so you can design your own! Link me in the comments if you make one, I'd love to see what you beautiful people come up with! I'll also be uploading any others I design to this page.

I would recommend you check out this video before you start printing :

Print Settings

Printer Brand:

Creality

Printer:

Ender-3 v2

Rafts:

No

Supports:

Yes

Resolution:

0.14mm

Infill:

20-30%

Filament: Duramic PETG Blue Notes:

As previously noted, this is designed to print at 0.14mm layers and three 0.5mm wall lines. This can be accomplished with a standard 0.4mm nozzle, just change the line width in your slicer.

I printed the black parts in PLA+, and it seems to be able to stand up to the heat just fine but I think PETG or ABS would be an even safer bet. The higher the temperature material you can print this in the better.

Category: 3D Printer Parts