Dungeon Master Tome - RPG Organization

BEHOLD! THE INCREDIBLY LARGE TOME FOR PLAYING DUNGEONS AND DRAGONS!

And don't forget to take a look at my Smaller Tome in case this is too big.

Strap remix now available! That's right! Your Dungeon Master Tome can now be a "Book Bag"!!! Download strap components here. Make sure to print print Book Back_Strap.stl and Pages_Strap.stl to be able to attach the strap!

Now, before you get all excited, I highly recommend you read the ENTIRE description (with some exceptions) before starting your prints, just to be sure you don't have any regrets. (Who knew you'd be reading a tome in order to print a tome?)

Various inserts for the tome are available here.

Don't forget you have access to other custom front covers for this tome!

Disclaimer: The design was inspired by a friend who asked if I could make a D&D book for her to gift to someone. She knew nothing about D&D and neither did I. So I did some research and spoke with individuals who have played the game to get some ideas of what one might like in a tome like this one. So, if you have any feedback at all or any ideas on how the design can be improved or any additions that I could add to the book, please share! There will be a good chance you'll see some welcome changes if you do.

This specific model's size practically utilizes the entire volume of my Bambu Lab X1-C. This means it was designed to fit on a 256x256 print bed. If you wish to attempt to scale things down, take a moment to visit the Scaling section below before you decided that this is the direction you wish to go. I will be designing a smaller book for D&D, so you may have to be patient while waiting for that to come out if your print bed is too small.

When specifying dimensions, they will be stated in terms of width x height x depth

Features:

• Inserts for this tower were designed with "units" in mind so individuals can remix inserts according to their desires (Similar to gridfinity, but with different dimensions). Each unit is 30.5x30.5x25.2mm. So if I made a 1x1x1 insert, it would occupy 30.5x30.5x25.2mm. Note: Make sure to incorporate tolerances when remixing inserts. I usually add a 0.2mm tolerance to each side, so the true measurement of a 1x1x1 insert for me would be 30.1x30.1x24.8mm.
• This model includes models for a dice tower that magnetically attaches to the book cover (See images for details).
• The dice tower was designed to fit in the tome in two different orientations. When folded, it will occupy a space of 4x3x2 units. When open, it will occupy a space of 4x6x1.
• The dice tower includes a door that opens to ensure dice land in the book and not on the floor (See images for details).

About the Hinge Links:

• The tolerance of where the hinge links clip into the book/dice tower are VERY tight. This is on purpose to ensure there isn't a lot of wobbling when opening and closing the book and helps to ensure longer durability of the hinge mechanisms. However, because of the way they were designed, you can scale them if you find the default thickness of them is too difficult to get snapped in. Just be sure to only scale them on the Z axis.
• Lower tolerance hinge links have been provided in case you feel iffy about scaling them. If you don't have man-hands like me, you might consider printing the lower tolerance hinge links for both the book hinge and the dice tower hinge. You should still get a nice fit.
• Because of the way the hinge links were designed, if they wear out or get too loose, you can easily print new ones and replace the old ones.
• You'll notice on one end of the hinge links, the hole is incredibly small. This is on purpose. The small hole is only 0.2mm thick before changing to the diameter that you see on the other side. I've found, when the plastic deforms when connected, it hugs the little "pins" and helps keep the hinge link from rattling. I've found this gives the book a more smooth and sturdy feeling when opening and closing it. If you're printing with something other than PLA, you might want to consider changing the link slightly according to your needs.

Printing Instructions:

Required Hardware: 28 - 6x3mm magnets (Yes, you'll need 28 of them... lots of magnets. Fortunately, you can usually buy a pack of 50 or 100 for $5-$10)

Supports? NEVER! GO TO HELL! Brim: Recommended for all parts to avoid warping.

All models should be oriented in the way they were intended to be printed.

What to print:

• Book Front Cover - x1
• Book Back - x1
• Book front Hinge Interface - x1
• Pages - x1
• Long Hinge Link - x2
• Short Hinge Link - x2

Optional dice tower:

• Dice Tower Part1 - x1
• Dice Tower Part2 - x1
• Dice Tower Hinge Link - x2

The 3mf file provided was sliced in OrcaSlicer and has recommended configurations for printing each piece of the main tome.

Assembly:

Video Instructions

All magnets should have a press fit tolerance. However, because of the different variations of printers out there, you may find you need to glue yours in or you may have to use brute force. Note: When installing magnets, be extra sure you're installing them in the proper orientation so they attract each other. I've made mistakes and don't want you to repeat them.

The Book Front Hinge Interface is meant to be glued into where the book binding would be on the front cover. It's designed so, if you try to place it incorrectly, it won't fit right. (I'm considered implementing some sort of fastening implementation to attach the hinge interface to the front cover. So if that's one of your gripes, stay tuned).

Glue the pages onto the book back.

When snapping in the hinge links, it is recommended that you snap the hinge links into the Book Back portion of the book, first, before snapping them into the Book Front Hinge Interface. I've just found it easier to do it in this sequence.

If you feel like the hinge links are WAY to thick to ever have a dream of fitting in there, you're not alone. I rely on plastic deformation to occur when snapping them into place. Because the infill is still somewhat hollow, there is slight movement in the plastic as you press the links into their designated locations. I've found myself man-handling the things before and it can be frustrating if you just can't get them in. If you can't seem to get them to snap in, You can print some hinge links with the Z scale adjusted so they're a bit thinner.

Once all hinge links have snapped in, the assembly of your Dungeon Master Tome is complete! Now all you need to do is choose from the available inserts and customize your storage!

Scaling (if you dare) don't read this if you don't plan on scaling Disclaimer:

If this starts to seem a little too complicated for you, rest assured I will be coming out with a smaller tome for lighter D&D users, so you can just wait for that if you'd like. It will fit smaller print beds.

Now, because of the magnet holes, any scaling will also scale those holes. So you'd have to scale it in a way to where you can use 2x4mm magnets or maybe 3x1mm magnets. It doesn't have to be those sizes specifically, but just consider the size of magnets you might be able to use, and scale the model accordingly. Yes, this means you'll have to do some math to know what percentage to scale it. You'll most likely have to uncheck "Uniform scale" (or similar setting) because there's a good chance your x, y, and z scale percentages will be different to get your desired results.

IMPORTANT:

Once you determine your scale percentages, you'll want to use the same scale numbers for every part you print. BUT BE CAREFUL! The orientation in which everything prints is not the orientation it will be in when the model is assembled. For example: The Book Front Hinge Interface.stl file is meant to be printed on its side. So, given the shorter axis is in the Y direction, if you scale the Z axis of the book to 50%, then you'd scale the hinge interface's Y axis to 50% instead of its Z axis.

Dice Tower Part2 is a print-in-place portion of the dice tower that includes a door that hinges open in order to ensure rolled dice make it to the tome from the tower. The tolerance I've given to each edge is about 0.2 mm, so keep that in mind when scaling down. If your printer can handle a tolerance of 0.1mm, then scaling might just work for you.

For those who have joined my club at the “Obsessor” tier or have subscribed to my commercial membership on Patreon, prints of this model can be used for commercial purposes.

Feel free to join my discord for additional support, questions, or suggestions!