Managed to fix the object, there were clashing meshes through the whole object which made my slicer do some stupid things (noticed this with a 2 piece snorlax I did a while back and worked out the problem then.)

If you like I can send you the updated file?
Also, the inside of the plunger fits really nicely with a very light sanding with wet + dry. Seals very nicely when printed with 3+ shells. Only real issue was that the outside was far too big, ended up melting two of these using a drill and sandpaper (whoops) .
Third one was done with a dremel and it almost fits the case perfectly. So the outer walls need about 1-1.5mm taken off at full scale. There is even a small gap between the outer shells, so there's definitely room to shrink it just a wee bit on the outside.
This item prints best on its arse end, otherwise there's just no bed adhesion.

That brings me to the last detail, this is not exactly 1/10th scale, she's slightly off, I don't actually remember the dimensions I had to change it to, but my updated version brings it up to a perfect size internally, just not externally.

I printed in Australian bought Jaycar 1.75mm PLA Blue Filament at 200 Microns, 220,minimum of at least 3 walls(shells),I Used 1mm roof and floor settings, honestly think 2mm might be even better (because of my original issue with the stock plunger which I explain at the bottom) , 0% Fill (no fill makes this object stronger and less prone to tube size variations causing friction issues, and yes, I tried breaking all three of my prints in half, even tried a stomp approach but with 3+walls this thing just doesn't want to die), with no heated bed. Here's the most important piece of advise, make sure that your layer starting point is set to 0 which will make a "zipper" at the back of the plunger, otherwise you WILL NOT GET A SEALED PRINT, which with light sanding flattens out and seals even nicer, (I was blowing as hard as I could into the plunger and no air seemed to be escaping at all, a couple of thumb pops seemed to keep me happy as a secondary sealing test). Excessive cooling helped me print the upper details with no supports too, I used a cooling clip for the ctc3d along with a 100mm fan on the front of the case. (still can't work out how to create decent supports xD)

If you use this MAKE SURE TO CLEAN THE LIVING HECK OUT OF IT AFTER sanding, otherwise all the particles left over will eat any o-rings on your plunger assembly making your blaster a nasty lump of plastic.

All of this just because I decided to stretch my spring to twice the length what 6-7 years ago and my plunger just blew itself open after about 5-6 shots xD

Thank you for the model, it the only one of its kind that I have found after a week's worth of searching!!

Nerf Recon Piston

Nerf Recon Piston

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