So, while I may have missed putting up some of the files, or something else. I am considering this project to be done. Unfortunately even though all my hardware worked very well, it was ultimately the hardware that did me in. Nano DLP is a tricky little thing to work with and made it neigh on impossible to proceed past the hardware and into printing. I would have loved to continue but I don't have the time or energy to rewrite nano dlp or figure it out. If anyone want's more instructions. Please just ask and I will be happy to help. Hopefully someone else can figure out the software.
This is my attempt to try and recreate the cristelia 3d printer, which unfortunately seems to have been abandoned. Things I have changed so far. The corners are now made to use 1in tubing that can be found easily in most american hardware stores. I have started to work on my own vat system in order to
Frame
8 x 12" aluminum tubing for top and bottom frames
4 x 17-20" tubing for sides (This is really dependent on how big you want the printer)
Parts
608-2RS Bearing
8mm lead screw with nut about 400mm.
Raspberry pi 3 with wifi (Or zero with wifi)
1 in outer diameter square tubing (8 feet or about 5 metres)
Ramps board
Arduino mega
12v power
Retina display for ipad 3 or 4
Nema 17 motor
Retina display driver (https://www.adafruit.com/product/1716 or https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Controller-Board-LP097QX1-2048x1536/dp/B06Y426S7Z/ref=pd_sbs_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ASK896JMF6GD9M9BRJ4E)
SD Card
Limit switch
Update 9/14/2017
Important things I have learned:
-DON'T CHEAP OUT ON THINGS
-Don't use a 12v laptop or led power supply, buy a bigger better one.
-Nanodlp does not work with a rpi zero
-Cheap chinese retina display to hdmi boards do not work, get the adafruit qualia instead
-Hdmi to display port is hard. Get an adapter that needs some sort of power supply.
-MDF does not a good printer base make
https://github.com/trinityalps/Kafka-DLP-Printer
Update 9/21/2017 Price breakdown
Aluminum tubing~40$
12V to 5V buck converter-2$
*DC 12V 10A Power Supply-14$*
*HDMI to DisplayPort Converter Adapter with USB Power-40$*
RETINA DISPLAY LP097QX1-SPC2-50$
2x12mm shaft 500mm long-15$
1/4 Inch aluminum, 12 x 12 inch sheet-24$
Limit Switch- 0.50$
Flexible Couplings 5mm to 8mm-4$
400mm 8mm Lead Screw-10$
*R-PI 3-35$*
*2xLMK12LUU linear bearing-10$*
Nema 17 stepper 13$
~~RAMPS 1.4 and Mega2560 R3-30$~~
A4988 Stepper Driver-2$
*Qualia Board for LP097QX1-80$*
FEP Film-10$
Misc Plastic, Screws, filament-10$
Total-359.50$
THINGS IN ITALICS YOU SHOULD NOT CHEAP OUT ON, BUY EXACTLY WHAT IS SAID
Cost Savings
Aluminum is the biggest area to save here. If you can find a cheaper source of aluminum go for it. The 1/4 plate I bought is far to big, you could easily get a 7*9 inch plate and it would work just fine. I cannot stress enough to just buy the qualia board, but you could try the abusemark board, but that still requires the active hdmi to display port with usb power. You can also save money if you can find a local shop that sells a retina display replacement, But be sure it's the right model. All in all you could maybe save 50~100$ depending on the parts you already own and your own creativity in sourcing parts. But I would recommend not cheaping out. Yes it can be under 300$ but sometimes just go for the good stuff.
Update 10/6/2017 Cheaper Alternatives
So the usb car charger exploded for some reason so instead I am switching a 12v to 5v buck converter, hopefully this won't explode. Due to difficulty controlling ramps with nano dlp, I am switching to the cheaper alternative of direct control with the pi through an A4988 stepper driver and attaching that direct to the rpi. It should work fine.
Corma
