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Version 2 - Anet A8 Electrical Box Alternate | w/ Pi Zero 3D Printer File Image 1
Version 2 - Anet A8 Electrical Box Alternate | w/ Pi Zero 3D Printer File Image 2
Version 2 - Anet A8 Electrical Box Alternate | w/ Pi Zero 3D Printer File Image 3
Version 2 - Anet A8 Electrical Box Alternate | w/ Pi Zero 3D Printer File Image 4
Version 2 - Anet A8 Electrical Box Alternate | w/ Pi Zero 3D Printer File Image 5
Version 2 - Anet A8 Electrical Box Alternate | w/ Pi Zero 3D Printer File Image 6
Version 2 - Anet A8 Electrical Box Alternate | w/ Pi Zero 3D Printer File Thumbnail 1
Version 2 - Anet A8 Electrical Box Alternate | w/ Pi Zero 3D Printer File Thumbnail 2
Version 2 - Anet A8 Electrical Box Alternate | w/ Pi Zero 3D Printer File Thumbnail 3
Version 2 - Anet A8 Electrical Box Alternate | w/ Pi Zero 3D Printer File Thumbnail 4
Version 2 - Anet A8 Electrical Box Alternate | w/ Pi Zero 3D Printer File Thumbnail 5
Version 2 - Anet A8 Electrical Box Alternate | w/ Pi Zero 3D Printer File Thumbnail 6

Version 2 - Anet A8 Electrical Box Alternate | w/ Pi Zero

kpurintun avatarkpurintun

March 25, 2018

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Description

This is an update to a previous case I made. I have learned a lot from the previous box.

I want to give feenix82 credit for the design, shape, and layout.

Updates from the original feenix82
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2736372
-Significant changes to the ventilation. I was struggling with the hexagonal vent design. If it printed, the quality was low.
-Separated the cable management ribs. Printing the ribs on the side adds strength and is much easier on the printer. Some of the ribs can be added after wiring to make that task a bit easier.
-Added a side mounted cooling fan to blow across the FETs. Chose a smaller 40mm fan.
-Added some angle supports to the mounting tabs. this is extra support and helps prevent lifting from the bed during printing
-Added cable entry ports directly over the cable management hallways.
-Raised the side walls of the main box, and shortened the walls of the cover
-Squared up the holes for power input/output at the bottom , and the USB/SD Card/Cable Management entry
-Raised main board by 5mm to help the power inputs have more clearance from the FETs. USB and SD Card holes raised to match.

Updates from my Alternate:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2779565
-Increased the amount of room in the cable management hallways by 10mm
-Attempted to add some "clip tabs" for helping to support the cable management loops.
-Increased the side and back wall thicknesses do allow deeper slots for the loops.
-Added a PiZero side car. Sidecar cover can be removed to allow full access to the pi. Added some cable entry areas under the cover. a "Pi Camera" can be installed where the ribbon sits between box and side car.
-New layout of the ventilation and loops so there is no skipping. Attempted to bring some continuity to the design.
-initially, I added a light bar at the top. It had a few degrees of kick to point the light a the board. This just added complexity and did not help, So I removed it.
-Added a small bit of material intended to print into the mounting holes. This first layer allows the holes to be printed easier by the printer and can be removed with a razor blade or drill bit.
-uniform holes. All holes are made small and meant to be drilled out to suit the hardware you have. (With the exception of the mounting holes.)
-shortened the tabs for better fit to a stock Anet A8. These were made uniform top and bottom.

UPDATE 4/2/18:
Clip Modification: Modified the clip design and holes to be more stable. When I made the clips, I was really asking too much from a 3D printer. This new modification is MUCH easier to print and should be more stable, and may not even need to be glued. NOTE: The clips and the holes are the exact same thickness. (3mm), this obviously has some "fit" implications. I left them thick in hopes that a nice tight fit would be better. Sanding them with some 220grit sandpaper will help get the sizing exactly right.

UPDATE 4/9/18:
Had a critical Error in the right MOSFET Mount. It was ~5mm off. Noticed it when I was looking at measurements.

Cover Alternate: In the case that you do not need the Pi-Zero, or want to wait... you can print this alternate cover which does not cover the pi sidecar. This will leave open any options to upgrade in the future.

Once complete. I recommend installing the loops and permanently affix them with CA glue. It is also a bit easier to run cables if half of the loops are installed after the cables are installed. I added 14 positions for loops, but they are not all required.

License:

Creative Commons - Attribution

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