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Tevo Tornado | Ikea Lots / Ultrabase / glass / mirror (4mm) heatbed brackets with cable strain relief 3D Printer File Image 1
Tevo Tornado | Ikea Lots / Ultrabase / glass / mirror (4mm) heatbed brackets with cable strain relief 3D Printer File Image 2
Tevo Tornado | Ikea Lots / Ultrabase / glass / mirror (4mm) heatbed brackets with cable strain relief 3D Printer File Image 3
Tevo Tornado | Ikea Lots / Ultrabase / glass / mirror (4mm) heatbed brackets with cable strain relief 3D Printer File Image 4
Tevo Tornado | Ikea Lots / Ultrabase / glass / mirror (4mm) heatbed brackets with cable strain relief 3D Printer File Image 5
Tevo Tornado | Ikea Lots / Ultrabase / glass / mirror (4mm) heatbed brackets with cable strain relief 3D Printer File Thumbnail 1
Tevo Tornado | Ikea Lots / Ultrabase / glass / mirror (4mm) heatbed brackets with cable strain relief 3D Printer File Thumbnail 2
Tevo Tornado | Ikea Lots / Ultrabase / glass / mirror (4mm) heatbed brackets with cable strain relief 3D Printer File Thumbnail 3
Tevo Tornado | Ikea Lots / Ultrabase / glass / mirror (4mm) heatbed brackets with cable strain relief 3D Printer File Thumbnail 4
Tevo Tornado | Ikea Lots / Ultrabase / glass / mirror (4mm) heatbed brackets with cable strain relief 3D Printer File Thumbnail 5

Tevo Tornado | Ikea Lots / Ultrabase / glass / mirror (4mm) heatbed brackets with cable strain relief

vektorviktor avatarvektorviktor

April 1, 2018

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Description

There are already some brackets available for the Tornado, either for Ikea Lots mirror panels (4mm height!) or the (still great!) Ultrabase. I wanted to simplify things and reduced it to only two brackets with a heatbed cable strain relief included.

  • You can use the original screws and the original firmware settings!
  • The homing position is not obstructed, because there is no bracket on the front left.
  • You can use any material you like. Since the corners aren't heated at all you can just use PLA (i did - no issues while printing @90°C+).
  • Use two small zipties to secure your heatbed cable.
  • You will want to change your homing z-position to +4mm (or whatever height your glass / buildplate / mirror is) or else you will overstrain the springs. You could:
  1. do that by tweaking the firmware, because the nozzle can still move to it's original position.
  2. move your Z-Endstop the desired amount up (preferred - take a look at my Z-Endstop adapter
  • Either way, you can use any 30 x 30 buildplates, mirrors or glass panels at any height. Since you won't need adhesives and the buildplate isn't clamped (the weight keeps it nicely in place) you can very easily switch buildplates (for cleaning, removing sticky prints, ...).
  • The print takes into account ~+0.25mm addition that i more or less have in all my prints. The fit is tight and my mirrors are firmly held in place.
  • I designed the screw hole counterbores to be a snug fit. You should remove the screw and just drill it in and out of the part until it fits perfectly.
  • Last but not least: it's a cheap and fast print. You only need two brackets and a cable clamp is already included. Each part should print in 2 to 3 hours - depending on your choice of layer height and infill (50% is plenty!).

Note: the plate shouldn't be thinner than 4mm, or the nozzle might hit the bracket. If so, you can scale the height or use this remix by bacheporo:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2862975

Sources included, feel free to remix and show me your makes :)

License:

Creative Commons - Attribution - Non-Commercial - Share Alike

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