DELETED PUBLICATION MyRCCar 1/10 MTC Chassis Upgrades (OLD)

The content of this publication is no longer available. It is kept online just for historic tracking purposes.

Now, if you want to use this upgrades you can do it with MyRCCar MTC Chassis Total Combo. All MTC parts I designed should be there, let me know if you find one missing ;)

Take a look to the rest of my actual designs in my Cults3D profile

OLD --->>>

Hi there everyone!

I tested intensively my new Monster Truck / Crawler Chassis (MRCC_MTC Chassis) and based on results I have improved some of the parts, make variations of them with a purpose and created new ones to make the chassis more complete.

The car behavour has improved a lot with the gearbox and i'm starting to control temps, also inside the new electronics housing. It's now ready for dirty 4x4 real scenarios.

####NEW: Take a look to the MyRCCar MTC Chassis with the Typical Pickup Body in Action! In this video I'm using a 1:3 reduction gearbox. Everything went ok but, after doing the video i gave some hard accel / braking and some teeth of my ABS pinion wich attacks the center diff broke... I will give a try to the 1:2 version someday!

#Whats NEW:#

###Ultra-NEW Parts for using Motor Fan:###

If you take a look to Yuran Liu's Truggy make, he is using a Motor fan with disipator. In my last order i bought one but i could not find the way to easily acommodate it into the MTC Chassis. After taking some measures and doing some tests i have modified 3 parts of the chassis to allow to use 60mm motor disipator with 50x50mm fan.

I think this will not be compatible with the center diff. locking system because the disipator takes al the space between motor and central diff output vases. This would be intented to use a big low KV 3660 or so motor, in my case, without gearbox so, all metal gearing. So same config than in this video but now i hope it won't heat up till 70ºC. I have done some tests and the temperature of the esc is always hotter than the motor one.

To fit the described motor fan + disipator i had to make a shorter version of the "FRsidebars". There is one hole less if you take a look. I am using 145mm partial front wheelbase. I think you will need to use this one or bigger to be able to use a 60mm long motor.

You also need to replace front top cover if you use the same position for the disipator and fan than me. And the center top cover (cutted version). You can find parts and photos about it at the end of the publication's photos and files. This parts will be incompatible with some others in this publication, take care to do not print some in vain.

###Maximazing battery size:###

3 different rear platforms will allow you to have the max space for long batteries. Use the longest one if you have a "partial rear wheelbase" of 135mm to have max. battery space in the long direction. If you have a "partial rear wheelbase of 155 or 165 use the normal one, the shortest. For 145 use the medium one.

Also 3 NEW Battery Holders/Trays will allow you to position your battery correctly and will protect it from the bottom. You can finally secure it with a velcro Stap or something similar. Use the shortest for 135, the medium for 145 and the long one for 155 and 165 partial wheelbases.

I also created a new F/R TopCover wich allow wider batteries to get in place. With this part and the appropriate rear platform and battery holder the max battery size you should be able to fit is 149.5x51x18 mm (L,W,H), anyway try to do not get max in all directions if you don't want to have problems to fit it in place.

###NEW Protections for Mud/Water Splashes:###

As I'm using not waterproof brushless sensored ESC/Motor and also some of my plastic gearings of the new gearbox are outside i decided to protect them mostly from sand,dust and water/mud splashes making some TPU covers wich take advantage of this plastic flexibility to be placed in the case of the bottom Motor and Gears Covers, and with 2-4 mm wall thickness in the top Electronics Cover it will allow to roll the car over it without damaging ESC or other components and the same time making a good shell to protect from rain and water splashes making good enough seal.

To avoid cooking electronics inside this sealed box i added a hole in the back of it to mount a 30x30 mm fan to get hot air out of the box. I'm using a 12V one with 2S so it moves slower than needed. If anyone knows a way to increase V for that fan, please tell me.

###New Gear-Sets for MyRCar 1/10 Gearbox:###

First of all, you must know this gearbox is not perfect. Anyway through testing and learning im trying to make it work the best possible.
With testing purpposes i have made 6 gear-sets, 3 in 32p and 3 in Mod1 pitches, and they can reduce 1:2, 1:3 or 1:4.

I saw that there was more room than needed between the outside gears and this made the teeth to do not use all its surface to push the other gear teeth. This gave me added problems in the original 1:4 gearbox, wich i corrected this time adding one teeth in one of the gears of the pair.

My last try was with 1:2 Mod1 gear-set (21T-22T) and some of the teeth of the 21T gear were damaged during some hard accel/brake tests after 5 min.

I'm now trying the smaller teeth using the 1:2 32p gear-set. I have made the same tests than with previous set and this time the car still behaves good after those tests and playing a little more for fun with the "puzzle ladder". I want to make some photos before breaking it again and maybe a video next time i have to replace external gears.

The distance between interchangeable gears axles is 21.75mm. For that distance i made the next gear-sets:

• Mod1 1:2 (21T+22T)
• Mod1 1:3 (17T+26T)
• Mod1 1:4 (15T+28T)
• 32p 1:2 (26T+27T)
• 32p 1:3 (21T+32T)
• 32p 1:4 (18T+35T)

Note: The 1:2, 1:3, and 1:4 are approximate when used with a 14T Mod1 Motor pinion and 28T Mod1 crown in the first gear pair.

I also discovered the same "extra room" between teeth from center diff and center diff pinion. I initially designed it as 14T and is the one im using by now because it did not give me problems. Anyway I created the Mod1 15T Center Diff. Pinion for the 44T Trooper Diff. and the 13T for the 46T SST Diff.

If you take a deep look to the GearBox publication, the long axle of the gerarbox was included in the 14T long pinion. Now this axle is a separate part to allow you to change the reduction easy with the provided gear-sets. So no more pinion/crown naming for the outer gears, just gears.

If you want to play with reductions between 1:2 and 1:1 you can try swapping the gears of one gear-set, but i can't ensure you there will be enough space for bigger gears in the outer position. The gear cover is also designed with very little room so it won't work for a swaped gears config.

You should also be able to use any Mod1 Motor pinion from 11T to 17T or maybe others, including 32p ones in combination with a 32p gear instead of the original Mod1 28T one.

###Stronger Steering Servo Tower:###

Everytime i break something i analyse it to see which was the weak point that made it break. The servo arm of this tower is so short and needed to be stronger around the hole. So the new stronger part is shared here.

###Forgotten FJ Cruiser Body Links:###

As i did initially for the OpenRC Truggy chassis and then for MyRCCar OBTS Chassis (on-road, buggy, truggy, ShortCourse chassis) i made the links to use the FJ Cruiser Body with this MTC chassis. I think is the more appropriate one for this body, in a visual way and for off-road big obstacles, but its height in combination with the extra weight of the body makes it to roll easy when turning at high speeds.

#So, that's all?¿?#

If you have read above all this upgrades explanations and you know what i'm talking about, you are really into MyRCCar way of thinking!

Tomorrow I'm making 1 year in Thingiverse!!! I have always loved free info and knowledge and i'm trying to do my part here in thingiverse, but i think i'm not recieving a proportional feedback from you users or thingiverse itself.

###Last Thoughts###

I need to feel a change mostly in you "users", becoming more kind of friends or active community members. Also maybe you can imagine what i feel when i see some of the featured things. Ok MyRCCar is just a rc car... maybe people had enough of that... OMG what i see?¿? a new Featured RC Car?¿?

So, you want me to go on working for free the way i did this last year?¿? Ok, i think this designs will be part of my next CV Upgrade anyway, but more than that, i would like MyRCCar to be a real community instead of my CV project.

Yours, waiting for the change,

dlb5!