Marlin 1.1.9 for the FLSUN Cube printer

Before trying to flash this firmware on your printer please make sure you use the ramps or mks gen l board on this printer with the stock drivers.

This firmware is meant for the chimera version of the flsun cube and is still somewhat a work in progress as goes for tweaking the settings for better print results.

Please keep in mind that I'm not responsible for any damage to you, your printer or any other mechanical or lifeform, if you decide trying to flash this firmware!

Thermal runaway is activated on the print-bed and the heat-blocks in this firmware.

Unzip using 7-zip, winrar or 10-zip(free from the windows app store)

CHANGE LOG.

15-12-2019

• Added MKS TFT28 FW(Dual extruder) for people who lost functionality in the touchscreen.

23-06-2019

• Uploaded Marlin 1.1.9 files for cyclops and single extruder.(not tested)
• Z-Probe on 4 points instead of 3, and double probe every point.

KNOWN ISSUES.

The stock/single nozzle firmware can possibly cause some extrusion problems.
This firmware is not tested thoroughly yet so testers are welcome.

HOW TO FLASH THIS?

Choose your precompiled hex:

• In every zip folder you can also find a .hex file, extract this to your computer.

• Install the printer's USB drivers if not yet done.

• Flash the hex with Cura, OctoPrint or similar

  • e.g. in Cura: Settings -> Printer -> Manage Printers -> Update Firmware.

• Use a tool with a terminal (OctoPrint, Pronterface, Repetier Host, ...) to send commands to your printer.

• Side note: Cura can also send commands via USB in the Monitor tab, but since you can't read responses from the printer, I'd recommend a tool with a proper terminal

• Important: Connect to the printer and send the following commands:

  • M502 - load hard coded default values
  • M500 - save them to EEPROM
    (Only needed on major firmware flash - e.g. coming from default FW. Not needed after flashing an update of this firmware unless explicitly mentioned in the changelog)

Compile it yourself:

• Download The Marlin folder and extract it on your computer.
• Download and install Arduino IDE
• Browse into the Marlin folder and run Marlin.ino
• In the IDE, under Tools -> Board select Genuino Mega 2560, Processor ATmega2560 and Programmer USBtinyISP
• Customize if needed (e.g. motor directions and type at line 559 to 566 and line 857 to 865 in Configuration.h)
• IMPORTANT: Disconnect your touchscreen from the mainboard.(flashing this firmware while it stays connected can cause failures to the touchscreen)
• Connect to your printer/motherboard through usb cable and select the COM.. port your computer connects to your printer to under Tools->Port.
• If all is done and oke click on the upload button top left on the screen(the arrow =>)

When the upload is completed and no redlines/error codes has appeared you can disconnect your computer, plug in your touchscreen and power up the printer.

You can connect your computer again with the touch screen plugged in as long as you don't do any firmware uploads to your printer.

• Send some movement codes to your printer to see if all is working fine, if not you can change the direction of the extruders in the marlin.ino file.
• If needed, you can set your z-probe sensor offset by sending M851 Z-0.01 for example.

EXTRUDER CALIBRATION

The 2 extruders should be calibrated Just fine but you can tweak this settings by sending g-codes to the printer.

• Get your old E-Steps with M503. Look for the line starting with M92, the value after the E are your current steps.

• T0 is your first extruder Hot-end T1 is your second.

  • Send T0 (activate first extruder)
  • Preheat the hotend with M104 S220

• Use a caliper or measuring tape and mark 120 mm (measured downwards from the extruder intake) with a pencil on the filament

  • Send `G83 to prepare the extruder
  • G1 E100 F100 `

• Your extruder will feed 100 mm of filament now (takes 60 seconds)

• Measure where your pencil marking is now. If it's exactly 20 mm to the extruder, it's perfectly calibrated

• If it's less or more than 20 mm, subtract that value from 120 mm, e.g.:

  • If you measure 25 mm, your result would be 95 mm. If you measure 15 mm, your result would be 105 mm

• Calculate your new value: (100 mm / actually extruded filament) * your current E-steps

  • For example, if your markings are at 15 mm, you'd calculate: (100/105) * 168 = 160

• Put in the new value like this: M92 T0 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 Exxx.xx, replacing x with your value

• Save with M500

• Send M104 S0 to turn off heater.

• Now for the second extruder:

  • T1 (activates second extruder)
  • M104 S220 (heats up to 220C)
  • M83
  • G1 E100 F100

• Repeat previous steps for calculating E-steps.

• Finish with M82

• You can repeat the process if you want to get even more precise, you'd have to replace your current E-steps with your newly calibrated value in the next calculation.

• Add to your start G-code, M501 below the G28 command, this will load the last saved changes you've made. (bed leveling, E-steps ...)

TOUCHSCREEN

Uploaded the files the upgrade the firmware for the touchscreen.

• Unzip with Winrar or 7zip and copy the files to your SD card.
• Insert SD card in the printer and power up.
• The screen will automatically start updating(this can take a while).
• When finished you can remove the files that are left on the SD card and you can enjoy your new Red themed touchscreen.

SPECIAL THANKS

I want to thank davidramiro for helping me make this tutorial.
Without his help I wouldn't be able to share this with you guys and girls!

OTHER THINGS

This firmware was tweaked with the custom x-carriage I made, in mind.