Das ist meine akkubetriebene Beleuchtungslösung für jede Eingangstür. Das Gehäuse besteht aus fünf verschiedenen Teilen und ist recht modular aufgebaut. In der Mitte des Gehäuses befindet sich ein HC SR501 Bewegungsmelder mit eingebautem LDR. Im Inneren befindet sich eine Ladeplatine mit Spannungswandler für eine 18650 Litiumzelle, die für ausreichend Energie sorgt. Über die gesamte Breite sind zwei 30cm LED Streifen angebracht, die in einem geringen winkel versetzt angeordnet sind. Dadurch wird eine gute Ausläuchtung der Tür - besonders des Schlosses - und des Bereichs vor der Tür erreicht.
Als Befestigung verwende ich Magnete, die auf der Rückseite der Lampe angebracht werden, und dann auf eine über der Tür befestigte Metallplatte haften.
Sollte Interesse zum genauen Aufbau bestehen reiche ich einen Schaltplan etc. nach.

This is my easy to build LED Doorlight. It is battery powered and lights both your door and the area in front of it. This enclosure houses a charge circuit as well as a protection and step up circuit for power deliverance.
The LED-stripes are triggered by an HC-SR501 PIR sensor module in combination with a LDR. The Light hangs with magnets on a metall plate above the door for easy access to the charging port on the side.
If there is interest I could make schematics and detailed information on how to build your own.

How To Build

In this section I want to tell you how to build your very own doorlight.

STEP 1:

First of all you have to print all three parts of this lamp and gather all the required parts.
Here is a short partslist with all components needed:
1x HC-SR501 PIR Sensor
1x IRLB8721PBF N-Channel MosFET or any equivalent FET (logic level N-FET)
50cm white LED-Stripe. Note that it has to be a 5V type not the common 12V type!
Wires
18650 LiPo cell with holder (You do not want to solder directly to your battery!!!)
Regulator and charging board
Micro-USB breakout/ extension cabel
Epoxy resin or any other weather resistant glue

STEP 2:

You have to drill two holes for the wires to pass through. Drill these holes right at one site of the groove for the LED Stripes. If you have a usb extension you want to install you also have to drill one more hole in one site of your lamp to fit it through. I recommend you to drill a smaller hole and make your way with files and sandpaper to get the opening right.

STEP 3:

Now solder wires to eache of your LED-Strips. These have to be long enough to easily connect to the rest once they are glued in place. So make sure to leave them long enough. You can shorten the wires pice by pice later if you want to.

STEP 4:

Now it is time to solder everything together like shown in the schematic. You can solder onto a piece of perfboard or even solder it directly together as I did. The circuit is not that complicatet that you have to use a perfboard but you can if you prefer it. As a battery I used a 18650 cell (Samsung) and a Charge/Protect circuit.

This DIY LiPo Charge/Protect/5V Boost Circuit was designed by GreatScott and can be found on his instructables page:
https://www.instructables.com/DIY-LiPo-ChargeProtect5V-Boost-Circuit/
Big thanks to GreatScott for his great work!

Such modules can also be found on the internet (e.g. Ebay) for cheap.

STEP 5:

Testing and adjusting: Now it is time to test your lamp. Make sure youre battery is fully charged and the motion sensor is working. For me I added a light sensor to my HC-SR501 so it gets only triggered if it is dark outside. Depending on what sensor you are using it might be helpfull to be in a darker room for testing. If it is working like expected you can adjust the on-time for your needs.

STEP 6:

After you have tested your lamp and made sure everything works correctly it is time to glue everything together. I used some epoxy two component adhesive to secure the LED Stripe in place. It is important to fill the holes so no water can leak inside. As I am using waterproof leds I only glued the end to the lamp itself. The PIR is held in place with hotglue in case I ever have to readjust the time or so. Now you can put everything together and use planty of clear packaging tape to hold everything in place and together. This is done in case you ever need to get inside. If you feel like having it permanent you can come back and secure everything using epoxy.

For mounting I have glued a couple of these strong neodymium magnets on the back and a large metal plate over my door. This way I can easily mount it and get it of for charging.

I hope this instrucions are helpful for you to build your own awsome dorlight.